Italian Summer Holidays

Marina di Camerota

From Montemiletto we headed south, not far down the coast to a town called Paestum. An area we chanced on in some reading, the Greek Ruins attracting my attention. It turns out these are the best Greek Ruins outside of Greece and as the photos show simply astounding.

One of the Greek Temples

In an Exhibition that was on in the Museum
Items on display that had been retrieved from Looters

Bill giving some size perspective of these temples

Paestum Archaeological Park

We found a Camper park 200 m from the Archaeological Park and staying 2 nights here were able to spend the whole day in the museum and amongst the ruins. The ruins are really accessible with little restriction on movements or access with only one of the large temples out of bounds as its high gable end after 2400 years has weathered, and may not be as sound as other parts. Paestums history is impressive. From the Greek Builders at 400bc and then changing hands to the Romans, the Italians and then being deserted as it was not a healthy place to live (malaria). Well worth the time and with the museum, gave great insight to the historic machinations of clashing powers & cultures over the millenniums. Also of interest is how often neolithic remains are found down deep, signalling the spread of man and the desirability of these areas as a place to habitate, albeit with in this case its incipient malaria, now gone we hope.

One of the many beaches on the coast,
the umbrellas marking the different Lido's.
Ten Euro for the day gets 2 chairs & an umbrella

The coastline we followed down,
the road is about a third of the way up the hillside

We wended on south to a bump on Italia's west  coast to the little old fishing port of Marina di Camerota. A quietly popular Italian beach area, with little in the way of flashy resorts. This may come and indeed some may be tucked round the corner, but presently is populated by many many camping Italian's and 2 Kiwis. There are few foreigners here (from rego plates) but as the short holiday season (the month of August) tapers off, we would expect to see a steady stream of Northern Europeans coming in with their camper vans.
The lido's crowd the beaches but our camp was perched above a small deeply shelving beach with limited access, so tho boasting 3 lidos (not as busy as they would like) has plenty of room for us and more. We have been rising and going directly for a dip, the beach being 10mins  down the track. The water crystal clear. Returning for a cold shower and starting our day. This consists of a 40 min walk to town, find a cheaper bar than yesterday, pick up a pepper & zucchini, walk home, spend 3 hours on the beach till the sun is gone, go up to the camp, have a shower, have tea, worry about how hot the night will be! The weather is stunning with temps. in the mid 30s during the day & night, then dropping to the late 20s in the early mornings, our little fan runs all night.

We took a boat trip out from Marina di Camerota
visiting caves along the coast

Bill swimming in the beautiful waters of one of the caves

Another exhausting day!

                 
 





After 6 nights here we followed the coast further down in and out, stunning vistas to be seen at every turn, how they hung roads on these cliff sides defies imagination. The lidos are only running at 25%, but with this many people around, it could be a lot busier.

Our lovely beach just down from the camp

Beautiful sunsets that our camera doesn't do justice

Again sad news with the earthquakes, a long way away but still shocking. Got the news from NZ first, as usual, but the BBC internet covering it. We have not visited this village but were in the areas this time last year. This is a big timeline story......... The destruction is no surprise, there are hundreds of old & medieval villages built on rock hillsides that stay intact only by virtue of the house next door,like dominoes. They can't practically be strengthened and will succumb if a big earthquake strikes nearby. This will continue to happen as the scale of any preventive measures is overwhelming, however it will take many more centuries to claim them all, and they aren't all on a plate boundary. It will happen again.... and again.......
We left the coast for a few days to visit Matera, one of the oldest cities in the world. The ancient city known then as Sassi first inhabited by stone age Neolithic man in limestone caves in the river gorge. Occupation of the caves in one form or another has gone on for several thousands of years.

The ancient town of Sassi looking over the gorge
where inhabitants has lived for over 7,000 years in the caves

That was until 1952 when the Italian government was so ashamed to still have cave dwellers that they forcibly rehoused the 15,000 residence, which took till 1968 as many were quite comfortable thank you. Now of course, less than  70 years later, they are trying to rebuild and get people back in as it is now a UNESCO Heritage Site,

Inside an original "home", complete with Ass!

A vacated "home" now abandoned

The section of Sassi to be kept in it's original state

a cultural wonder and draws huge tourist crowds & Euros. We engaged an English speaking guide on the morning we left, as we had spent the previous day wandering, and there were more questions than answers. She filled in huge detail, all very interesting. Matera would, or maybe is, an anthropologists dream with the succession of cave dwellers from prehistory into modern times. The inhabitants were understandably suspicious, reluctant to move, and had little comprehension of the outside world. Believing their life was very very  normal. In 1948, no electricity, plumbing (the water supply being rain water trapped in cisterns that were dug under their floors) and very little access to any media, a very insular environment.  Infant mortality at 50%, the family of usually 6 children and grandmother shared a closed in cave, with typically a donkey, (more valuable than a child), a pig & chooks, (no dogs or cats). The manure was retained in the cave as an organic source of heat, at 40 degrees C.  The smell must have been something else, but very normal.
 Our guide explaining that those people remaining alive today are at a loss to understand why it is a tourist thing, many now feeling deeply ashamed of how normal they thought they were, and finding no redeeming features in their earlier life style. There is a complete loss of connection with the former inhabitants and the newbies who are occupying renovated modern dwellings, ( not easy to plumb up a cave). Some dwellings will be renovated back to original as a testament to the deprivations and hardship endured till very recently in our times.There were many interesting angles & stories from Matera and the people of Sassi, that I will be happy to share on our return.

An amazing experience visiting this ancient town - Sassi (Matera)

As an aside, we have now been away from our Nelson home for two years and our plans will have us back in NZ for Xmas. It will  be good to catch up with people and are starting to get excited about our return. Still however there is more travelling to get us home, stay tuned.