Sunday, 18 October 2015

Spains Riviera - Costa Brava - Costa Dorada - Costa Del Sol

Benicessim
The Spanish Riviera is equal to the Italian  & French stretches of lovely coast, and equally as busy but being the shoulder season was good for us. The resort town of
A lovely morning stroll
Benicessim where we were happy to spend 2 nights is a lovely beach and promenade, indeed where Ernst Hemingway, amongst illustrious others, was known to spend much time no doubt researching his classic, For Whom the Bell Tolls. The classic villas along the promenade  were a social beehive and would've continued but for the Spanish Civil War.
One of the many Villas
along the promenade
                                                         
Today it has a great bike trail on the  old railway line round to the next town, even though S did happen to incur another puncture returning and walked the last 3kms.This made her beer with lunch doubly delicious.
We strolled the Promenade that evening and were only minutes into it when we were treated to one the most stunning fireworks displays we've ever witnessed, it went on and on and to all
Just before Bill climbed up to
this tower on the cycle trail
intents and purposes for us only! (must've heard we were in town)
Afterwards as we continued our stroll we did pass a few dozens of people walking back but certainly not as many as we might have imagined to warrant such a spectacle.
Onward to Javea (Xavia), this place you pop over a headland and drop into it, it being another old Med Port predating the Romans
but nonetheless enjoyed as a good place to visit and pillage over the course of history.
Actually waiting on a coffee here - but wasn't a good one!
History is now involving the Moors from North Africa, they went forth and converted Spain to Islam in the 7 century and then as a result of many twists and turns including the Spanish Inquisition and the Crusades  were turfed out and reverted to Catholicism in the 14 th C.(Yes the greedy popes once more grabbing land and people)
There is much evidence of their occupation
which we are yet to investigate. It is interesting to note that many place names are now appearing in Arabic writing no doubt as a hangover from the once dominant Arabic/Islamic population
From here we got onto the Motorway and weaved in and out of the coast, passing through desolate arid country at times.
Much of the countryside we passed through
Arriving at Pillar Del Horadada at a large resort town that was mostly deserted. Arrived in time for a quick bike ride down to the local beach for a swim just after 5.00pm. It was reasonably busy with it being one of Spain's National holidays
Not a lot of people around
The next day we biked in the other direction of the bay, very desolate with the villas all locked up for winter. Hardly any sign of life along the streets. Lots of high rise development over the last 10 years, with a lot of new ones under construction. So the desire to own an apartment near the sea is still popular here.
Onto San Jose in the Cabo de Gata Natural Park, which they say is the jewel in Spain's natural attractions, with a large area of desert like coast turned into a nature reserve. But so different to anything called a reserve back at home.  The countryside is very arid and stony. Lots of cacti, very rocky hills in the background, reminding us of central Otago. 
A very common sight
The beaches are largely deserted as no services are provided in their natural reserves but very nice to be there. Its villages, previously dedicated to fishing, have become tourism spots for those interested in nature.  We had passed many km's of greenhouses with crops grown year-round in massive invernaderos – plastic-covered "greenhouses" – for intensive vegetable production. We have never seen such intensive use of land, an absolute eyesore but business is business! Hope it never gets like this in NZ.
When you Google this area it shows all the
"Greenhouses" - the white is all the plastic covered land.
Arrived at camp Los Escuollos mid afternoon in time for a swim down at the beach, before returning to camp for a fresh water swim. Lovely and refreshing.The camp was bit different with permanent caravans & awnings set up for all year by the owners to use when required. After seeing how people live in all the high rise apartment blocks, it must be great to get away at the weekends to beaches such as this one.
Looking out to more plastic white
"greenhouses" on the any bit of available land
Had the next day on our bikes over to the next bay, fairly quiet. A few scuba divers were training some tourists & a lone fisherman entertained half a dozen locals while loading the nets back onto his boat, filling in their morning. Had a nice cold beer looking out over the bay, while a group of cyclists from Belgium staying at Malaga, arrived and drunk coffee and coke! Poor beggars!
Los Escuollos Beach
Spent the afternoon on the beach, which was lovely in the autumn light, but still summer temperatures. From San Jose we headed over a gravel road to a couple of local beaches, which could be anywhere in NZ except ten degrees warmer. We then continued onto Almyate, just out of Malaga, Spains 6th largest City on Costa Del Sol (Coast of Sun) - only 130 kms north of AFRICA!
They say Malaga is one of the oldest cities in the world, it's history spans 2,800 years. It was ruled by the Islamic Moors for 700 years before the Christians ruled once again. Soooooo much history in these places.
Had the day in Malaga, with another pass on a sightseeing top Decker bus but not up to the standard of Barcelona. Still it gave us the chance to look around the city, including an hours walk around the old historic parts of the city centre and an hours show with a Flamingo dancer / singer & guitarist. Sadly the weather packed up and made Malaga appear a bit gloomy, not that great. Returned to camp a bit damp and tried to watch the RWC NZ vs France game. The camp owner tried his best to tune in the game but no such luck, so we enjoyed watching a game of football with our wine before returning to the van and getting updates online of the rugby game. Didn't we do well!
In the morning we headed off to our assignation at Casa Bliss

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