Sunday, 2 August 2015

Camping at Gallipoli Italy (23 to 29 July)

Gallipoli Old Town
We left Montemiletto on  Thursday (23rd July) to go to the Ancient Port of Gallipoli, not to be confused with the Anzac Gallipoli in Turkey. Leaving in convoy with the Petrillo's to avoid a mad dash across Italy in separate directions (not completely unknown for me),and bar a supermarket stop en route (proved unnecessary - better one next door to the camp) we arrived a scant hour after our companions with the tent etc, allowing them to set up camp in the continuing 30C plus heat. The air conditioning on our vehicle has stopped and even at 120kph, windows wide open, it is far from comfortable but there it is!!!
Most of the trip was on the tolled Auto Superstrada which is an excellently
Fishing & Leisure Boats
maintained well serviced direct route between most major areas, a days motoring for us averages at 20 Euro. Once off these you get onto other motorways which may or may not be continuous ,well maintained, or serviced. It's a different kettle of fish and can be frustrating from signage, lane marking, speeds, and has caused some real consternation. Speed limits seem to mean nothing and tho you see a lot of speed warning signs indicating electronic speed monitoring we have rarely seen any policing happening. As an aside, parking is tolerated everywhere, IE always across pedestrian crossings, corners, & double parking with the Carabinieri simply not interested as they mosey on past, not sure what they do, tho have seen them in groups having a jolly old chin wag with assorted vehicles and side arms. Some also carry very menacing machine guns which makes us uneasy to say the least.

The Petrillo's tent beside our motor home 

So Agricamping in Gallipoli is as close to home camping that we've seen so far. Agricamping are generally working farms that have put in camping facilities for people to stay and giving extra income to the farmers, cashing in on tourism. Good ablutions, nice bar, a bit of space and constructed shade, and the ocean across the busy road. (never any cooking facilities or fridges etc)
One of the rocky beaches
But the beach is not suitable for kids as its a rock escarpment and you need to exercise caution to get in & out, the camp hasn't got a pool at this stage , so we're on a beach quest every day. Again  the beaches are private Lidos with small public areas, and sadly the public areas and roads etc were overflowing with rubbish, generally the places were ultra unkempt and litter a real issue.
The Mediterranean is a lovely ocean with very little tidal movement and we have yet to see any swell, with only a breeze chop being apparent on occasion.
Beautiful water for swimming
The beaches we found were pleasant enough , if you can see past the litter,and spent some lovely hours swimming and lolling in the sun, then generally heading back for late lunches and a siesta in the vain hope the day would cool down for us to comfortably spend a late evening dining and relaxing. It's been so hot the fridge in the van has not been up to it and have resorted to fan forcing air thru the cooling grills to get its efficiency up slightly ,as initially it was not cool enough to keep milk etc.
Gallipoli is firmly on the Italian tourist route with little other nationality's determined, though some signage in English. We are a week off high season and the place is teeming, largely at night, indeed only getting going after nine.
Walking along the old walls of the town
Some bars,cafes stay open through siesta and others opening from 4 thru to 6ish then all get busy 9ish, to how late we don't know. However on the two occasions we were in town after 9 the streaming people we pass on leaving was huge and then large queues of traffic heading in, to no apparent parking, but then there is always the pedestrian crossings and corners to park on:);) not to mention double parking up many streets allowing one way traffic only, God its caos.
The old port town is built on a rocky outcrop in the Mediterranean connected to the new town by a bridge and was founded well back in BC.
Bill & Caio discussing "a renovation job"
The old town is very authentic with renovation work carefully controlled,we suspect, as the new stuff is very considerate of the old. There is a traditional fleet of boats daily fishing for any thing edible including sea egg (kina) which we tried, and no not firmly on our try again list. The fish market was amazing and pricing fair but this far into tourist season probably a bit expensive by local standards. We did eat out at a local Seafood Ristorante where we sampled the kina and winkles etc. With a main of the salted baked fish, all stunningly presented with some nice wine right on the beach front, a beautiful evening was had by the adults. Luna & Caio both fell asleep on chairs before the end of the night.
Shopping the back streets which are all paved,
Lots of vespers required in this town

The daily beach excursions were varied and the swimming /sunning always welcome. If you weren't in the water or drying off you were sheltered under your umbrella,watching the people.
Sun bathing is still very much the norm here, there being many beautifully baked cookies here, men and women, also many well overcooked. Bikinis and speedos the norm, in fact might get into the budgie smuggling caper myself. Topless bathing is not normal with only a couple (2 pair) ever being spied, as stated bikinis are normal and alas they shouldn't be, there were some disturbing sights, but mercifully tempered with some stunning views but mustn't go on.:):)
Bill relaxing with a book & watching
The beaches we accessed were out of the way and 3 had only one lido so public use was  good, perhaps the 2 real gems were the Porto Salvaggio in a national park (not as we know it) and required a 20 min walk over a rough dirt road, with parking almost non existent (not to be deterred) and then emerging to a little break in the escarpment allowing a small beach of 50 metres but abundant rock bathing, with a spring feeding in from the rocks, many degrees colder than the surrounding sea.
Port Salvaggio
This was delightful and being a National Park rubbish bins were abundant and empty, but filling fast as the constant flow of people swelled the numbers, this being Sunday.
National Park Beach
The other beach we happened on was found on my only  excursion on the bike during siesta one day and  wanting to quarter the old town. The seaward facing side of the town had a stunning beach on the outside of the defencive wall which was totally public, ultra child friendly and only  minutes from the eateries etc ,which was perfect for the long day out as we didn't return to camp to eat, electing a  beer and pizza in a local cafe, hard to beat. The girls even managed to squeeze in a bit of shopping.
The best beach - in the port its self
So in all Gallipoli was good and would return in the low season to winter over if that became an option.
After 6 nights of blindingly hot weather, good beaches, meals and drinks we broke camp and headed home to Montemiletto with a night in hand for us to fill, and the Petrillo family directly, as setting up for a night camping is no fun in this heat, and they have air con that keeps tempers cool :):):)

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