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Looking through to Port Piombino |
Elba's history can be dated well back into history, featuring in Homers Epic tales of adventure, centuries BC.
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Where our cruise began |
The Argonauts visited here, and was known for its rich resource of iron ore then, and still being mined into last century, though its richest resource is know tourism. Any thoughts of this being an undiscovered paradise were shattered many many years ago, and with it now being peak season,..... we are not alone!
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Our lovely beach cafe on Elba |
The weather is stunningly hot and settled, something very foreign to us antipodean island dwellers. The nearest I have experienced is, the hottest summer day in Central Otago. It stays hot all night and may only drop a few degrees after 4am till sun up.
The culture we have all read of siesta is alive & well in Italy as it is physically sapping and not a lot can be achieved in the heat, even the camp nominally closes its gates from 2pm till 4 ,to vehicle traffic, noise and activities are forbaden, or at least frowned on. The beaches empty out from 12 ish till 3ish when it picks up again till 6 or 7.
There are African vendors continually plying the beach with sunny's, towels, jewellery etc. and food, as this is their neighbourhood. As we move further south to where the refuges are landing it will become even more apparent.
The beach is golden sand and a sizeable bay between two headlands 3 km across, the beach 4km, it is divided into about 10 private areas separated by 50 -100 m stretches off free beach, where we go. You are free to transit along the fronts and if the seating
is too near the water you can transverse them, nobody seems to get hassled. Many have associated restaurants ,bars etc, and though the deck chairs are largely abandoned by 7 the bars fire up into the small hours. It is great for party time holidays, but a shock to our system. Having said that we are enjoying the spot.
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Bill with alternative to coffee |
Cheap beer and gelato, lovely sights, warm water and siestas, everyday:):)
The bay was in German occupation during WW2 but that was only small fry compared to the Islands checkered pass with most "maritime nations" having
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Napoleon's home while in exile |
conquered and held the Island, for whatever reason was important or political at the time.The locals possibly didn't even realise the masters had changed, on occasion, especially if it happened at siesta, life goes on. Napoleon was exiled here for 300 days in a villa at the top of the hill, and engaged with the locals, trying to better their lot, as history recalls, what was actually bettered is a mute point, but he was eventually liberated to go on and lose at the Battle of Waterloo, thus again being exiled to a less salubrious location, as befitting a man of his diminished stature.
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One of the many swims |
We took an Island coastal boat tour halfway round the island mid week, a 5hour cruise which was great.
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One of the many beaches on Elba |
Think of Able Tasman National Park on steroids being populated by Kiwis on Prozac. Many vantage points were built on with several villages on the hill sides and most beaches had Lido's(private sunning/bathing areas).
The boat was packed to the gunnel's, with not enough seating and shade for all, however with constant breeze and shifting shade, was ok, and every hour or so would stop, and half the boat would jump into stunningly clear blue blue water, bodies everywhere, how no one was left behind goodness knows.
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The "Family Starfish" |
A running commentary was given in flawless Italian so didn't glean too much, but in all was worth it if only for the great swimming, sadly Sheryl was unable to overcome her fears and waited to swim later in the day back at the beach.
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Is that the Captain's hand! |
The captain and indeed many of his country men still smoke, an old well chewed stogie is still much favoured. He mooched round the boat chewing his stogie for most of the trip and I took a memorable shot of him busy in the head as we cruised. As an aside thankfully the heads were looked at all swim stops, this didn't stop queues forming and people knocking on the doors with concerned anxiety :(:(
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Near the end of the trip, everyone knackered! |
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