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| Cape Reinga - a meeting of the Tasman and South Pacific Oceans |
We agreed to meet mid-February
at Red Beach RSA on Saturday evening. Arriving from all quarters to start a new
adventure after our previous one on the East Coast last year - two Buses (G&C borrowing Wendy's Father's) and one Camper Van.
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| A refreshing swim in rock pools on the Hibiscus Coast |
We did a small walk around
the area on arrival where Graeme had previously lived 20 odd years earlier. As
it was a warm start to our trip we decided to have a swim at the local beach,
which had a rather steep access and only rock pools at the bottom which Wendy
& I enjoyed while the Boys checked the fishing prospects. Dinner at the RSA
made the first evening easy, and it was an opportunity for Claire to catch up
with an old friend who lives in the area, who came and had a drink with us.
Auckland is so massive and
not easy to get in and out of but thankfully we all travelled through without
any issues, even popping off the motorway in and out of Silverdale for supplies
as we knew there wasn’t a lot of options up north. Access in and out of this village
(can you still call it that??) has been well designed with a lot of the large
format stores – including the not so big……JayCar where Bill loves visiting.
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Quirky Cafe under construction
at Kaiwaka |
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| Tinopai - looking across to Wendy & G&C's Campers |
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Alan, Graeme, Margaret, Bill & Sheryl and Claire
(Sorry Wendy someone had to take the photo) |
Day 1 we ventured
north - heading up HW1, calling into
Kaiwaka (what a quirky little town this is – not easy to park with yellow lines
both sides of the road in and out of town) for a coffee before turning off the
main highway at Brynderwyn heading to Tinopai for our first camp on this trip.
Shannon’s in-laws (Margaret & Alan) were also doing a Northland trip in
their motorhome and as Alan grew up in this area it was on their radar and
timing worked well for a catch up.
Tinopai is on the Kaipara
Harbour and is quite pretty like the surrounding area, so long as the tide is
in. Otherwise the mudflats aren’t that attractive. Our little beach did need
the water in to allow us to be able to swim – of which we had a few. We decided
on 2 nights here as the Boys were hoping
to have some luck fishing but sadly with no results. Bill did lose some of his
gear - to a ray most probably he thinks!
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| A very discrete commode - beautiful timber at the Kauri Museum |
Wendy and ourselves wanted
to see the Kauri Museum just back up on the main road at Matakohe, which has a
huge collection of early New Zealand Pioneer history. Graeme & Claire had
been recently so decided to continue travelling north. We spent all morning here
and could have easily spent more time. But the Bus loads of tourists that came
and went while we were there only had 45 mins to take it all in. So we were
more fortunate. Bill and I had been here 40 odd years ago – but don’t remember
the detail. We could remember the huge collections of Kauri Gum that some
people had over the years and have now donated to the Museum – it’s not really
the thing people have taking over half their house these days. Let alone dust it!!
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| The beautiful Lake Kai Iwi |
After a late lunch in Dargaville
(another lovely town when the tide is in), we continued on up Highway 12 to Kai
Iwi Lakes where we met up with Wendy – stunning turquoise waters with white
white sands. G&C being ahead of us had already sampled this lovely swimming
hole.
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| Bill & Graeme trying for a fish - but in that water!(Horeke) |
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| Horeke - where there's a Pub but no beer or food or service |
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| Lunch break and fresh eggs on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail |
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| The last part of the cycle trail back to Horeke |
We were last here 31 years ago camping
with Shannon when she was about 3 months old. We can’t remember it as beautiful
so think it must have been an overcast day as today was stunning. Kai Iwi Lakes
are fresh water lakes nestled in sand dunes. And it was sooooooooo warm. The
white sands went out quite a way and then dropped off. I never went that far
but Bill did of course! There is a basic wee camp there which gets crowded over
the Christmas break of course as it’s only 3 hours from Auckland even though it
has taken us 3 days.
The day was getting on by
the time we got back on the road and still had 80km to get to our next
destination at Koutu Point on the Hokianga Harbour – another huge harbour on
the West Coast. It felt like a big day by the time we arrived at a private
property out on the point looking out onto the harbour and at $10/ van – great value.
But unfortunately too late for a swim. Unless you wanted to walk out quite a way
to find the water. And after my navigating Bill down the wrong road that
expressly warned against towing and turning! Sometimes local signage like this
is put up by locals to discourage random traffic. So we weren't paying much
attention. Mistake! Had to unhook and back 500 m to the junction separately. Must
read the signs in future!!.
Bill really
needed a beer!
It was on to Horeke (still on the Hokianga) the next morning to ostensibly have some pub grub and bike a
short section of the twin coasts cycle trail. Unfortunately the publican had reasonable
reviews but was not so good with his work ethic. We found it all shut up - no
meals, no nothing. Then someone read the sign that he was closed Monday &
Tuesdays and opened for evening meals for the rest of the week. Great! It is
Wednesday so should all be good for dinner. So we did a bit of ticki touring
around the area – visiting Wairere Boulders to see the advertised amazing boulders
but at $15 each ($75) we thought it was a bit much to wander through their
bush. We visited the little church by the Mangungu Mission House where the
third and largest signing of the Treaty of Waitangi occurred on the 12 February
1840. Now every year on the 12th
they celebrate the Treaty here.
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Who thought Shags were so attractive when courting -
another amazing photo from Wendy |
When we returned to the
Pub looking forward to a drink and a meal, we found a few more Campers had
arrived expecting the same. But sadly, the Proprietor had decided not to bother
opening, so the majority of us sat around by the waterfront and had our own little
happy hour – meeting some interesting fellow motorhomers. One couple were
organising a shuttle ride the next day on part of the Twin Coast Cycle Trail to
Okaihau and then ride the 28km (3hrs) mostly downhill back to Horeke. Sounded
perfect for us too. We got picked up in the morning, had a coffee in Okaihau
and rode through lovely dairy farmland and forests and finally over a
4k board walk thru the mangroves on a tide literally lapping over the track in
places.
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| The pressure is on to be first to complete the Sudoku 👍 |
Back to Horeke for a
promised beer the rumour being he was going to open but.... alas this day was a
good dog walking day and might just open for evening meal.
So after a bite of our own
food and a quick shower we headed off to Matai Bay via Kaitaia where we replenished supplies.
Also caught up on some computer work while Bill did the laundry - he was asked if he had a small, medium or large load?
After some thought - he said medium. He was then asked if the medium load was a small, medium or large load? Ha ha. Anyway an hour later and a cost of $5.40 and their laundry powder, the load was ready for pick up- how could you complain! 😄
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| "Straight as Bro" - another good set with the Torpedo👍 |
Matai Bay is a lovely doc
camp on Karikari Peninsula across on the East Coast at the base of Cape Reinga.
With predicted stormy weather at the end of Cyclone Oma due we thought it best
to nestle in the bush where we should be reasonable sheltered. We had two
nights here and thankfully the storm didn’t come to anything. But unfortunately
it wasn’t pleasant enough for swimming either (although Claire did manage one).
B & G took the Suzuki complete with Kontiki around to Tokerau Beach where
they caught a couple of snapper – perfect in fish tacos thanks G&C.
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| Steve (Birthday Boy), Us and Julie at Rangiputa |
With the weather improving and being Saturday –
it was time to head around to Rangiputa to another little Doc Camp at the end
of the road. Steve and Julie were to celebrate Steve’s 70th birthday
(and retirement) with family and friends. It was lovely to share this special
occasion with them. Now the fun will start Guys – where to live / how much
longer to keep working Julie / where to spend most of your time??
The Boys had another go
fishing but no luck this time. Hopefully more success up north.
After the weekend the
weather settled beautifully and we headed up to Cape Reinga again via Kaitaia for
more supplies and dump waste. As the day was stunning we decided to go straight
to the Cape and take photo’s while the opportunity was with us. And then headed
back down and into Tapotupotu Bay – Doc’s Camp #1. We caught up with G&C but not Wendy. So we assumed all was good with her and we would see her at Camp - with no cell phone coverage there was no way of discussing any of this.
Anyway when we finally turned up at Camp - Wendy was in a stressful state from having driven down the steep gravel road into camp which we had forgotten about that this was an issue for Wendy and her front wheel drive vehicle. So by the time we arrived she was very worked up and ready for a wine or a bottle or two!
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| Cape Reinga Walkway - nearly back at Camp Tapotupotu |
A busy little camp now
being managed by the local Iwi and rumoured to be vested back to them later this
year. We wonder how that will affect the access the NZMCA now enjoy to stay at
this stunning convenient camp.
The next day Wendy, Bill
& I went back to the Cape to walk the 5km back to the camp. Delivered there
by G&C who then went off on a Tiki tour of their own whilst we trudged back
round the somewhat steep coastal track. A stunning walk cresting panoramic sea
cliffs and dropping into a lovely secluded bay, and then steeply onto our home
bay. Took us a couple of hours and we were ready for a swim in the inlet on our
return with G&C still touring down south somewhere (really the only
direction from here).
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| Fishermen , fish and seagulls at Spirits Bay |
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| Not a bad day's catch😊 |
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| Fish filleter and his coffee assistant |
A short drive the next day
took us to Spirits Bay, not so busy as it is a 15km gravel road detour off the
beaten track. A little walk from the camp takes you to a huge ocean beach
complete with stunning golden sands. This looked like a good place to launch
the Kontiki which we did and both times hauled in fish. (4&5 snapper) We
stayed 2 nights and were loath to move on however with enough fish to settle
the craving we set sail south and went to a little camp not far from Mangonui
after a re-provisioning stop at Kaitaia once more. Also for S to catch up
on her work.
Hihi camp is nestled in a
small inlet on the old foreshore giving a totally sheltered leafy camp. A five minute walk to a lovely
beach looking north across Doubtless Bay
to Tokerau Beach where we set our lines the week before.
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| Lovely Mongonui |
A small detour the next
morning back to Mangonui to visit the Saturday Market and buy local jam for our toast before heading on to
Taupo Bay – our next destination.
Although nice enough,
unfortunately the camp was back up the road, not near the beach so we decided
to push on further to Tauranga Bay. Another Beach camp with basic but adequate
facilities. Quite busy with our age group of course. So we had to wait till night
2 before we were able to move right onto the beach front where on a rolling
consensus extended our stay to 4 nights.
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| Everyone has an opinion on how to bring in the seaweed😄 |
The beach also yielded some fish as
well as a nice swimming spot and even a breaching shark less than 3 m of shore.
A place we would’ve been happy to stay longer. There was even time for Wendy to
bake her “Famous” Meatloaf – delicious too Wendy.
While here we detoured by
car one of the days back to Whangaroa Harbour for a look. This was a location
Sheryl and I visited as young lovers to stay at Kingfisher lodge with a work
group soon after I first moved to AK in 1978. We later returned with all four
parents a few years later for a lovely weekend all getting to know each other.
This was greatly enhanced
by the captain on the shuttle boat (no road access to the fishing lodge)
liberally sharing swigs of rum on the 40 min trip to the lodge.
This time round we had a
bite to eat at the Boat Club with a nice cold one before walking around the
little Bay.
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A reflective moment at the Rainbow
Warrior memorial |
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| A not quite so reflective moment! |
Time was moving on and
sadly we had to continue south. But not too far – 18km over a scenic coastal
road to Matauri Bay – wow! Just when we didn’t think the beaches could get any
better. This had the clearest aqua waters of all the beaches we visited, with stunning
white sands too.
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| Matauri Bay - perfect for swimming |
Up above the cliffs overlooking the bay is the Rainbow Warrior Memorial to the Greenpeace protest ship that was blown up in Auckland in 1985 and latter got scuttled here.
B&G tried the Kontiki once again as it looked perfect and “Uncle”
had said it was a great spot. But sadly the Kontiki got hooked on something and
snapped off coming backing in. There it stayed the night till Bill paddled out
in the morning on a borrowed kayak and pulled it back in – sadly no fish or
gear on it!
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| Bringing in Bill and the Kontiki |
And sadly we had to move
on once again as our trip was rapidly coming to an end.
Next stop Kerikeri
Inlet Aroha Island Eco Center, a small
ecological camp amongst the mangroves. From here we went off to walk the Marsden Cross Track that G&C had highly recommended. Another piece of NZ early history where the first Mission Settlement was settled. It was a lovely walk through farmland to Oihi Bay. There were information boards along the track giving plenty of interesting history on the early settlers and the Maori of that area.
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| Marsden Cross Memorial |
The Aroha Island Eco Center advertise a chance of spotting a kiwi, widely advanced by the proprietors. However after venturing thru the tracks
after our usual post dinner debrief charged with good wine, and armed with our
red lights (white light prohibited) we stagger around for a good 40 mins. We
returned to camp none the wiser as to where the kiwis were however a couple of
Scandinavians were indeed lucky spotting two somewhat lost kiwis and engaging
us in riveting conversation for another 30 mins before we finally got to bed.
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| Wendy and crew on the Mangrove boardwalk to the Haruru Falls |
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| Dinner at Waitangi Camp - W, B, C and Anna & Ronnie |
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| A little treat at Paihia in the sun |
This was our last night
camped together as our next destination was Waitangi where Graeme had a
conference to attend for the weekend while Claire stayed in their Bus with us
at Waitangi Holiday Camp. G had some swanky room at the Copthorne Hotel that he wasn’t
sharing with us Bus peasants. Not even his fluffy white towels!!
Still we managed to
entertain ourselves checking out Pihia’s township once the sun came out and
walking through to the Haruru Falls the next day (13km return) which included a
lovely board walk through mangroves with the tide lapping the sides. Picturesque.
That evening we had Wendy’s
daughter Anna and friend Ronnie for a bbq dinner at camp, which was a lovely
evening.
Come Sunday our little
group was to part ways after 3 weeks of wonderful adventures in Northland – no breakdowns,
lots of swims and lots of laughs. And amazingly Claire managed to stay on the
Wagon throughout the whole trip, even with their near death experience just out
of Koutu. Well done Claire.
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| Whangateau with the Brothers |
Wendy continued her way
home slowly, taking in a few more beaches and birds. We went on to Whangateau
where my brother Allan had been keen on us to join them sometime. Well this was
a perfect time. Plus Wayne came and joined us too ( staying across the road at
the Camp – he’s not a Bus person). It was a lovely way to finish our trip with
all my brothers and partners – thanks Allan for organising..
