Camping in a motor home in Italy

Our current spot in Tuscania

From what we have gleaned of Italians on holiday, by having just experienced their peak season (similar to our Christmas break - schools closed for up to 6 weeks - businesses closed for 3 weeks), we have made some Tyler observations. Take note this is only a small glimpse of Italians camping with motorhomes.

Camp Ground Natural
Lake Vico

We have seen a lot of motor homes where we have parked up at nights but during the days the numbers on the roads aren't anything like we have at home in NZ. This is possibly due the roading network ,which is huge, and there being multiple choices to get most places, for most, being the SuperStrada which we don't use so much. Caravans we have seen very few.

Camping under Plane Trees
Lake Bolsena

We haven't seen any rented motorhomes, they seem to be all owner occupied. Mostly Italians too, although some French, German & Dutch. Their registration plates have to show the country of registration - ours of course is GB. There doesn't appear to be any buses, nothing like Big Yella. They are all the big white, mostly shiny ones, no character such as having names like we give ours back home, and certainly not the paint jobs. We haven't seen any towing of cars or boats, a few with kayaks on the roof, but again nothing like NZ.

Camper Parking Orvieto

We have stayed in a few camp grounds, and interesting the difference to our ways at home. The camps don't have kitchens set up for cooking, only doing your dishes. Above the sinks sometimes are dish racks for your dishes to drip dry, as most homes we have seen so far. It's certainly a great way to keep your kitchen looking tidy, just the cupboard with dish rack after washing and they drip dry behind closed doors. In Italy I think they expect you to eat out, which can be very cheap.

Camper Parking Montefiascone

Toilets & showers pretty much the same except lots don't have toilet seats ( Bill thinks this is much more hygienic) and toilet paper sometimes, more often not. But we are lucky with our motorhome, I haven't experienced many public toilets. Only one camp so far has charged for hot showers, which we haven't needed in these current temperatures.  I found this surprising, with the country so dry at this time of the year, water supplies can't be an issue. Must have great storage facilities.
We have stayed in a few Camper Parks which are specific for camper vans. Some provide power, most with fresh water and dumping facilities. Some are free which is hard to see how they cover costs when they are providing power too! Some of the car parks have 24 hour parking which is great. We have seen very little signage stopping motor homes from parking over in towns (due to 24 hr parking fees) and the cost is not huge at the 24 hour parks, some even providing power. The prices are up over the peak July August season at the camps, so we are looking at reductions after that.

Camper Parking 24 hrs, we are the little one!

With all the positives there is the down side of no freedom camping, There just aren't the places to pull in to, or off the sides of the roads like we have at home. There may be some along the coast but as we have been trying to avoid the busy places since we left A&R back at the beginning of August, we haven't come across them.
We have stayed at one Agriturismo place, where farms are trying to make a little extra with doing the tourism thing too, lots of B&B's, not so many for camper vans. But over all so far it's been a positive experience. Lets see what we are writing over winter!

Italy - Lazio Region - Bill, the Etruscans & the Popes

We enjoyed Montemiletto for 2 more days after A&R left whilst we sorted air conditioning and arranged our selves for the next stage IE travelling alone, only us two holding hands, or more accurately scratching each others eyes out as we travel round. This is the part where we have no itinerary and simply wing it. S has been worried as it is holiday time in Italy and its busy. Well it is but the busy places are holiday places IE the beaches & touristy things.

When we were heading inland, to join A&R, avoiding the Rome ring motorway we went of piste and passed a small walled village, as we drove past the towns gate it was obvious there was history there so made a mental note. We got more mental as we drove for sure but luckily we were able to retrace our steps on the map and this was our destination upon cutting the cord now, 3 weeks later.

Etruscan Tombs

We drove about 4 hours largely up the SuperStrada, no problems in this heat with 30 ++ temps and aircon just purring away (another story), even left the van idling as we stopped in a layby for lunch. Another motive for heading north was a vain hope of out distancing the heatwave, (Well you know what happened in Pompei!!!!)
We duly arrived at Tuscania (not to be confused with Tuscany), 50ks North of Rome, a wee bit unsure of our lodgings or indeed what was

Christian church built over
an Etruscan Temple

behind the walls of this medieval town. We were immediately barred from taking our motorhome through the gates and directed via signage to an area at the top end of town, not a good start we thought. But far from disappointment we arrived at a small shaded free parking lot for Campers with water and dump facilities a scant 300 m from the top gates and 6 mins from the first cafe. BINGO

Amphitheatre Benevento

It was set up for campers but at some stage the town fathers lost the plot and the electric was no longer working but apart from this it suited our needs. Tranquillo

Tuscania is a medieval fortified town built on a commanding hill within a distance from Rome that made it strategic. This was true of most the towns we went on to visit in this region. The saying that "all roads lead to Rome" is so true and Rome has

Medieval city of Sutri

influenced these towns history over 2000 years, however their existence well predates the Romans by over half a millennium as these places in this area were founded by Etruscans, and the jury is still out on where and how they come to be here.

Amphitheatre carved into Tuff rock

Have read 2 theories and who assimilated who over the early centuries as the Etruscans had plumbed towns well before the toga wearing Romans made it into history. None the less the Romans eventually won the day and they kept the records to prove it all.

Mithraic Temple used by Etruscans
commandeered by the Christians all
carved into the Tuff hillside

Tuscanian history goes back to as early as 8th Cent BC from the Necroplis still very evident in the tuff hill sides. Tuff is a volcanic compacted scoria that though easy to work was resilient to wind and rain erosion unlike sand & lime stone. This has left a rich legacy of tombs ,which we have explored, for archaeologists and historians to glean some of the ancients story, making for some good reading, exploration and in awe off what can be achieved by a society we, in ignorance, would call primitive if we did not now know better.

Montefiascone
Looking out to Lake Bolsena

We forayed into Viterbo from here and again its early history the same, but wait, the real story here is the Papal angle, they were megalomaniac wealthy men from powerful families, who were constantly working with and against other powerful megalomaniacs (indeed at one period 3 simultaneous popes all claiming divine rites) basically amassing lands,(ie provinces) fortunes and influence. The stories are outrageously huge in their breadth and it is hard to see

where the religious part of the story is excepting the Church wielded with iron fists, an all powerful direct lineage to JC and his dad God. Christ they were largely rapacious political tyrants that the peoples had no reason too look to for leadership excepting to obey the dictum's and tow the line buying a path to heaven.
This started with the very early Popes and continued in many respects to modern times. One assumes they were very much men of their times and as such history may do them disservice, our reading of the facts now does not paint a glorious picture of kindly men doing the lords work!! The standing armies, fortified castles, land, allegiances and the masses that they  commanded has shaped the

Italians for 2000 years and continues to be a force in their daily lives. I have an insatiable need to look in every church I see, being a badly lapsed catholic, and these huge monuments intrinsically to God, but in reality to the popes and families that won favours, is testimony as why I'm lapsed. It seems that every Bishop, Cardinal, Pope, and powerful benefactor have needed to create their own monument to ...........well I let you decide. But God hasn't worked a lot of good to the people of these parts. Over 2000 yrs the country has become absolutely wodged with churches, (at no little cost) they are truly magnificent, numerous, full of antiquities & tourists. In fact tourists may well be the "silver lining"
Benevento, Viterbo, Mountefiascone and now Bolsena all share similar stories and have all had at one stage or other a real hand in history. Often multiple pieces of history. As we travel and enquire of "Wiki" or the "I"sites there is not one place that can't claim a place in this tapestry. Over 3 millennium and countless generations, events and twists of fates touch all, and the history just gets deeper, and deeper, and deeper.
We are at Lake Bolsena for two nights as we soak up the history, swim in the lake, enjoy the cafe culture and catch up on washing the undies. In the last few days we have only progressed a paltry 50ks further from Rome but the area keeps sidelining us as we mooch around.

Thankfully we have been enjoying temperatures in the mid 20's and low 30's for the last few days, apart from our walk in the bush to locate Necropolis, this is pleasant. The lake is cooling and last night the foreshore had 6 different musical groups playing over a km stretch of cafe's, markets etc, as it is holiday time and saints festivals etc etc. The cafe's largely get going after 5ish, restorantes at 7 ish then the bands start at 9:30 and we came home after 12. Have no idea what time it stops. There are very relaxed families, strolling with toddlers, dogs and grandparents etc just milling and chilling. Everyone is smoking, but we are getting used to that. Lots of youths, but no drunken or aggressive youths, we never feel intimidated, it is all very pleasant.

Pompei Thursday 30 July . Not 24 Aug 79 AD

Pompei with Vesuvius in the background

24 August 79AD. That was a big day for Pompei. Things are still a bit hazy as to what happened, it took a few by surprise, even the dog licking its u no whats. The current thinking is, a massive heat wave hitting the area, accompanying the explosion,  all

One of the main paved roads

over in a few short seconds, then the ash burying it. I know !!! doesn't answer all the questions but there are more informed sources than me working on the problem here. Soooooo my theory in light of enlightenment is that old JC's dad took care of things cause this place was a bit risque to say the least. In fact when P. was rediscovered whilst a channel to realign the river was being dug a few hundred years later in the 16th C, a leading archaeologist was put on the case, and was so shocked with the frescoes & statues etc. that turned up at every turn, he tactically decided the world or more particularly the Italians, going through a reformation phase, were not ready for the blatant promscuousness of Old Pompei and reburied it, with only a few curios being safely locked away.  Wiki is quite informative on what has been found (safely locked away still), and the consumer info from the I sites, is a bit air brushed, but the souvenirs shops don't pull any punches with the beautifully reproduced huge appendages and phallic wind chimes a hot item , so to speak, in keen demand for those in the know, those that are not in the "Know" are left slightly bewildered as to what on earth???? I know Mum enjoyed her visit, though am guessing ...... think now she is a little bewildered after reading this.... Well I blinking well hope She is Bewildered.

A porticoed courtyard

As I allude, this is a bit like the old story of Sodom & Gomorrah. Be warned!!!!!!!!!

Chariot groves in the road

Pompei was a hugely advanced city to what I imagined, (no news to all you academics and other well read friends), (this trip is an eye opener).Civilisation has been round for a long time, and Pompei, around well before the Romans and JC. It was a thriving well organised, far from Humble city. If you wanted "it" you could get "it", it was the playground of the glitterati, of the Romans, it was a very cool place, and according to whats been dug up, completely "Amoral"

So the extended family of Petrillos and Tylers set forth from Montemilleto towards Naples in a fairly busy but normal 1 hour trip to Pompei. Pompei has it's own Motorway exit, there is multiple choice motorways, pick the  right combination and Bang you are there, bottom of the motorway ramp into Pompei.

Casting of a body excavated

And it's buzzing, as Italy does, with people, selling souvenirs, cafes, people, cars & buses milling trying to find parking. Going into a little private lot, they spot your rego plates and tripling the price, A&R have Swiss plates so they are "money in the bank", didn't count on the Kiwi's and Italians in the car saying "what the...." if we can back out of this culdesac we're out of here. So an old  guy up the road is selling parking in a restorante driveway, for the day in shade at 7 Euro, a much better deal.

One of the lovely courtyards

As mentioned Rico has been a gift with smoothing all our encounters to date, so much so that we fear being left alone. He again fell on his sword and queued for us with a 100 others and 20 mins later had tickets whilst we relaxed in the shade. This was good as we were still in the throes of mid 30 temperatures and that is sweaty stuff. We packed in over 2 hours of highlights, ticking off most priorities. IE seeing dead people, seeing old stuff, seeing Mt Vesuvius, oh and seeing dead people, at one stage thought I might lie down and pretend  to be dead, but guessed that wouldn't fool the kids , but in this heat thought it was worth a go....

The main square

The place is huge and all joking aside it is fascinating, it had a population upwards of 15000, having expansive houses and public buildings in any ones books,  you can spend as little or as much  time as you like, you will not be bored or "over it".The info is multi lingual, you can go guided, down load a guide or just wander with plenty of information laid on, I was in my element.

Forum Bath House

Pompei is well presented and is still being dug up with Archaeologists actively working in several zones round the city. The levels of opulence that this city had, all that long ago is still breathtaking by most peoples standards. They were uber organised with plumbing, transport ,retail, IE you could buy whatever was available at the time,and the buildings and amenities amazing.

Plaster casts of a few victims

That's not even touching on the artistic & cultural significance of Pompei, indeed all cities under the Roman Empire at this time were very civilised, and they had been round for many hundreds of years already, (makes our civilisation look young and green) We may go back having got interested and read more, but may elect to go on to Herculian, a nearby city destroyed at the same time, less known but as well documented. However 2 solid hours in this heat was a good effort for all, especially the kids, only so many dead bodies can keep the fun up, so with a well deserved luncheon break in a very discreetly hidden food bar in the ruined city, we recharged and made a strategic withdrawal, still managing to see many more sites on our staged exit.

Then godly bliss, an air conditioned car for the hour trip back. Perhaps one of the most awe inspiring days so far, leaving us wanting more. R&A have been fantastic at pulling this and other highlights together, as it's not easy with young kids, and old farts, hot hot weather and lots of other things happening requiring their attention. Our Big Thanks to them. We will not forget Pompei.

Castel (Not Castle) Del Monte (29th July)

Castel Del Monte

Castel Del Monte sits on one of the highest hills on the Apulian Plain, and it stood out like a beacon for us as we travelled through the Alta Murgia National Park, plus plenty of signage, we couldn't miss visiting it as we headed back to Montemiletto.

The Grand Entrance

We headed off from the farm toward the medieval monument, which was only ten minutes away. as we drove up a lovely tree lined avenue we came across a huge parking area all set up for buses / cars & motorhomes. There was a ticket/souvenir shop & cafe. This was the second car park we had come across that caters for Camper Vans to stay over night in a high tourist area. The other one was back in Alberobello. For 7 Euro we could park up for 24 hours, with electricity provided, rubbish removal, toilets. Even though we would not be staying, it was still great to plug into the power to help our poor wee fridge cope with another days heat rather than use up all our gas.

Part of the Courtyard

From the car park everyone had to catch a shuttle bus for 1 Euro return to the castel. I guess this was to reduce traffic to the castel, plus the tour buses would have struggled to get up the tree lined narrow road.  With the shuttle running every ten minutes, we got up there just before ten. Good to be ahead of the crowds which did start to come up later from big tourist buses.

Listening to the audio guide

Castel Del Monte was built for Frederick II around the mid 12th century, who was King of Sicily and the Roman-German Emperor - what a title! Guess you would have the power and finances to build this  fortress which is an octagonal prism with an octagonal tower at each corner. In the centre is an octagonal courtyard where the towers can look across to each other as well out to the plains and the distant sea.

Very little marble remains

There were 8 bedrooms, some of which had their own bathrooms (ensuites??) in the towers. The castle isn't huge but with the high vaulted ceilings you got the impression of grandeur. The castle had got into disrepair in the 18th century and most of the marble lining the walls and pillars were looted. The Italian State bought it in 1876 but never started the restoration till 1928.

The Ensuite

Bill & I paid the extra to have an English Audio Guide which made the whole visit far more informative as we had some Italians asking us to explain some of the features. These were of course English speaking Italians :)

Trulli Huts in Alberobello

The town of Alberobello

On our return from Gallipoli to Montemiletto we travelled inland through the region

Passed many old
Olive tree plantations

of Apulia to the town of Alberobello that A&R had as a "must visit" on our trip.
Alberobello is a small town full of Trulli buildings which history says were first built back in the 14th century. The region is formed on limestone bedrock, which has no permanent surface water as any water just flows through the limestone and out to

One of the beautifully paved streets

the Adriatic sea. Trulli huts are dry stone rural buildings that were normally built on top of cisterns that were dug out to contain any rain water that fell. The stones removed to create the cisterns were then used to build these amazing huts without any cement or mortar on top of a supporting lime-mortared dome floor.
The existing Trulli buildings that we saw date from the 18th century, and a lot were renovated in the 20th century to attract tourists and offer an alternative accommodation to normal hotels. The majority of what we saw were souvenir shops all selling very similar items. On top of the Trullo cone are pinnacles of differing shapes representing the signature of the different Stonemason that built that particular Trullo. With all the buildings painted with a white wash, the town appeared very attractive and clean.

Rico contemplating buying a Trullo home??

There are various stories on why they were first created one being due to high taxes on property in the area of Puglia, the Trulli's were built so they could be quickly dismantled when tax inspectors were in the area. Seems like a lot of work!

Many souvenir shops

There is plenty of evidence that they were built for field workers / animal shelter or for storage as we saw many all through the area but not in the same condition as the ones in Alberobello.
Even the Agrifarm we found to stay on that night as we travelled through the Alta Murgia National Park (Bill found by chance as we travelled through the very bare and dry national park) had quite a few over the property that the farmer was using for storage.

Our park for the night with
Castel Del Monte in view

The farmer & his wife spoke no English, so once we made this clear with each other, he then went on to talk for sometime about somethings that we will never find out what he was on about. We did do a lot of smiling. He eventually told us with lots of waving of hands to follow him, which we did to an area to the side of the main farm home (this also housed a rather large restaurant that looked like it would be used for functions- way out here in the wop wops - but not open tonight.)   Once he trampled the grass a bit we could see he had power points installed, so we were able to set

Another reno job Bill?

ourselves up for the night. His signage hadn't been that great to find him so I gather that may have been part of the reason for being his only guest for the night.
It's funny with all the lack of understanding between different cultures, the money is always easy to understand :) He pulled out of his pocket what it was to cost us for the night, and although basic services, it was a lovely rural setting and at 15 Euro we were very happy. And it was very peaceful with the bonus of a breeze all night making it a comfortable night to sleep. We had the view of Castel Del Monte on the horizon for us to focus on for our visit in the morning.

A few of the many Trulli buildings on the farm.

Camping at Gallipoli Italy (23 to 29 July)

Gallipoli Old Town

We left Montemiletto on  Thursday (23rd July) to go to the Ancient Port of Gallipoli, not to be confused with the Anzac Gallipoli in Turkey. Leaving in convoy with the Petrillo's to avoid a mad dash across Italy in separate directions (not completely unknown for me),and bar a supermarket stop en route (proved unnecessary - better one next door to the camp) we arrived a scant hour after our companions with the tent etc, allowing them to set up camp in the continuing 30C plus heat. The air conditioning on our vehicle has stopped and even at 120kph, windows wide open, it is far from comfortable but there it is!!!

Most of the trip was on the tolled Auto Superstrada which is an excellently

Fishing & Leisure Boats

maintained well serviced direct route between most major areas, a days motoring for us averages at 20 Euro. Once off these you get onto other motorways which may or may not be continuous ,well maintained, or serviced. It's a different kettle of fish and can be frustrating from signage, lane marking, speeds, and has caused some real consternation. Speed limits seem to mean nothing and tho you see a lot of speed warning signs indicating electronic speed monitoring we have rarely seen any policing happening. As an aside, parking is tolerated everywhere, IE always across pedestrian crossings, corners, & double parking with the Carabinieri simply not interested as they mosey on past, not sure what they do, tho have seen them in groups having a jolly old chin wag with assorted vehicles and side arms. Some also carry very menacing machine guns which makes us uneasy to say the least.

The Petrillo's tent beside our motor home 

So Agricamping in Gallipoli is as close to home camping that we've seen so far. Agricamping are generally working farms that have put in camping facilities for people to stay and giving extra income to the farmers, cashing in on tourism. Good ablutions, nice bar, a bit of space and constructed shade, and the ocean across the busy road. (never any cooking facilities or fridges etc)

One of the rocky beaches

But the beach is not suitable for kids as its a rock escarpment and you need to exercise caution to get in & out, the camp hasn't got a pool at this stage , so we're on a beach quest every day. Again  the beaches are private Lidos with small public areas, and sadly the public areas and roads etc were overflowing with rubbish, generally the places were ultra unkempt and litter a real issue.
The Mediterranean is a lovely ocean with very little tidal movement and we have yet to see any swell, with only a breeze chop being apparent on occasion.

Beautiful water for swimming

The beaches we found were pleasant enough , if you can see past the litter,and spent some lovely hours swimming and lolling in the sun, then generally heading back for late lunches and a siesta in the vain hope the day would cool down for us to comfortably spend a late evening dining and relaxing. It's been so hot the fridge in the van has not been up to it and have resorted to fan forcing air thru the cooling grills to get its efficiency up slightly ,as initially it was not cool enough to keep milk etc.
Gallipoli is firmly on the Italian tourist route with little other nationality's determined, though some signage in English. We are a week off high season and the place is teeming, largely at night, indeed only getting going after nine.

Walking along the old walls of the town

Some bars,cafes stay open through siesta and others opening from 4 thru to 6ish then all get busy 9ish, to how late we don't know. However on the two occasions we were in town after 9 the streaming people we pass on leaving was huge and then large queues of traffic heading in, to no apparent parking, but then there is always the pedestrian crossings and corners to park on:);) not to mention double parking up many streets allowing one way traffic only, God its caos.
The old port town is built on a rocky outcrop in the Mediterranean connected to the new town by a bridge and was founded well back in BC.

Bill & Caio discussing "a renovation job"

The old town is very authentic with renovation work carefully controlled,we suspect, as the new stuff is very considerate of the old. There is a traditional fleet of boats daily fishing for any thing edible including sea egg (kina) which we tried, and no not firmly on our try again list. The fish market was amazing and pricing fair but this far into tourist season probably a bit expensive by local standards. We did eat out at a local Seafood Ristorante where we sampled the kina and winkles etc. With a main of the salted baked fish, all stunningly presented with some nice wine right on the beach front, a beautiful evening was had by the adults. Luna & Caio both fell asleep on chairs before the end of the night.

Shopping the back streets which are all paved,
Lots of vespers required in this town

The daily beach excursions were varied and the swimming /sunning always welcome. If you weren't in the water or drying off you were sheltered under your umbrella,watching the people.
Sun bathing is still very much the norm here, there being many beautifully baked cookies here, men and women, also many well overcooked. Bikinis and speedos the norm, in fact might get into the budgie smuggling caper myself. Topless bathing is not normal with only a couple (2 pair) ever being spied, as stated bikinis are normal and alas they shouldn't be, there were some disturbing sights, but mercifully tempered with some stunning views but mustn't go on.:):)

Bill relaxing with a book & watching

The beaches we accessed were out of the way and 3 had only one lido so public use was  good, perhaps the 2 real gems were the Porto Salvaggio in a national park (not as we know it) and required a 20 min walk over a rough dirt road, with parking almost non existent (not to be deterred) and then emerging to a little break in the escarpment allowing a small beach of 50 metres but abundant rock bathing, with a spring feeding in from the rocks, many degrees colder than the surrounding sea.

Port Salvaggio

This was delightful and being a National Park rubbish bins were abundant and empty, but filling fast as the constant flow of people swelled the numbers, this being Sunday.

National Park Beach

The other beach we happened on was found on my only  excursion on the bike during siesta one day and  wanting to quarter the old town. The seaward facing side of the town had a stunning beach on the outside of the defencive wall which was totally public, ultra child friendly and only  minutes from the eateries etc ,which was perfect for the long day out as we didn't return to camp to eat, electing a  beer and pizza in a local cafe, hard to beat. The girls even managed to squeeze in a bit of shopping.

The best beach - in the port its self

So in all Gallipoli was good and would return in the low season to winter over if that became an option.

After 6 nights of blindingly hot weather, good beaches, meals and drinks we broke camp and headed home to Montemiletto with a night in hand for us to fill, and the Petrillo family directly, as setting up for a night camping is no fun in this heat, and they have air con that keeps tempers cool :):):)