Saturday, 7 December 2019

McKenzie Country with Canals of Trout and Salmon


Spot of fishing at Lake Ohau

A wee wine while supervising the bbq in Wanaka with H&R

Sample time at  the Cardrona Whisky Distillery with
Tour Guide Chris

A flooded Clutha river and a Trout at Albert Town ๐Ÿ‘

The lovely Cardrona Hotel

An old Goldminers hut on the Lindis River

The ruins of the Lindis Hotel at Nine Mile Reserve

Unwinding in the evening on the Canal

Before the Mower

The beauty all gone!๐Ÿ˜ข

Nice Rainbow Trout Bill at Lake Ohau

Wash day and smoking fish just out of Twizel

Pity it was raining - these Lupins would have been
stunning on Lake Tekapo

The flooded Rangitata River before it got bad!

Flooding through the lower Rakaia Gorge

Looking up the upper Rakaia Gorge

On leaving Jacks Point after 3 weeks of sporadic painting, we only got as far as Lake Hayes Estate ( a paltry 16km down the road)  to spend the evening with our new friend Sharon … an introduction to a Queenstown contact from  UK  friends Kath & Owen .  A pleasant evening was spent socialising with her 2 flatmates Katie  and Brad, all very interesting characters. Indeed turning into a late night,  sampling a variety of whisky and liqueurs from the Cardrona Whisky Distillery. After a head clearing walk the next morning, along the Shotover \Kawerau confluence, we headed towards Wanaka to catch friends Helen & Ralph. As we ventured we spent  the night at a favourite haunt, Lowburn on Lake Dunstan. It was pretty windy with good sized waves on the lake. Definitely not paddling weather.
H&R were staying at their timeshare, which we had often heard about , as they have for many years holidayed annually in Wanaka for 2 weeks at this time of year. The apartments are lovely and well positioned  for a short walk into Wanaka Central and the foreshore. Bullock Creek runs through the property and is well stocked with large rainbow trout. It was, much to my disappointment ,decided bad form to get my fishing gear out and on later perusal of the fishing regulations quite rightly so. The only way to console my disappointment was to head out for a drink and so it was that we went to the Cardrona Whisky Distillery with H&R. Sheryl had got busy and booked us on a tour after Katie’s  recommendation.  And what an interesting tour was had, though no one licked the barrel! Something we witnessed in Cognac with fellow Kiwi travelers  touring a Cognac Producer  a couple of years ago. Though I had strongly admonished any thoughts of purchasing any of the excellent products, after a full sampling, somewhat weakened,  we bought a bottle of their orange liqueur which was luverly…. I was tempted by the whiskey but at $300 odd dollars for 750mm……..
Initially with no plans to stay overnight  in Wanaka, H&R talked us round as they were unusually on vacation with no kids and equally at loose ends so an enjoyable evening was spent with the prospect of a look around the next day and a picnic in the Bus. Driving past Glendhu Bay and walking the track to Diamond Lake, it was very warm windy and busy. Indeed all the walking track parks were overfull with  cars signalling busy tourism already well in swing. We retired to the Lake reserve in Glendhu Bay for lunch and had a relaxing afternoon talking nonsense while watching other tourist come and go to the lake shore.  We finished the day with a. great  BBQ tea and discussed even more nonsense. The highlight of the day for H&R must have been the waste disposal at the local Dump Point where they learnt the intricacies of life on the road!
With Ralph’s birthday the next day, we joined H&R on their reasonably early start with a walk of the Wanaka streets, and a coffee to finish down on the waterfront (which at this point of writing is underwater with flooding of the lake with the constant rain in the hills and the snow melt at this time of the year).
After breakfast we moved onto Albert Town Reserve for S to do some online work whilst Bill fished…..and against all odds a lovely Rainbow was landed and kept. Moving on we stopped in at Nine Mile Historic Reserve and looked around the old ruins of the Lindis Hotel -interesting history as always. It is also a place to camp overnight, but with it still being relatively early in the day and not great for fishing, we decided to continue onto Twizel.
Camping that night at our NZMCA spot along the canals, to again try our hand at a salmon and to smoke my rainbow trout. With strong winds still in the area, it took a bit to keep the smoke in, but we got there.
Two nights and no fish so we ventured around to Lake Ohau and the beautiful and quiet Round Bush Doc camp resplendent with colourful  Lupins, that are a signature of this area, showing all around the McKenzie. The native mistletoe was also on stunning show in amongst the Beech trees. Such a pity this is now an endangered plant with Possums and rats having a detrimental effect on this beautiful plant. Doc are doing their best to try and save the plant around the country.
But the fishing was better, landing two small rainbow in quick succession but not keepers  unless you were hungry. A  big “hook spitter”  took the lure then did a spectacular jump spitting my lure right back at me, just to tease me!
A great travesty the next day after we had taken the Suzuki for a bit of a 4wd to the top of the lake into the huge Station, was on our return, DOC had turned up to mow the lawns and…….mowed all the lupins down …….Sheryl was bereft ……I had words with the grim reaper but he was adamant they were an introduced flora and as such not welcome…. A bit like us in many respects if you want to follow that train of thought. But thankfully the photo’s had been taken earlier while still on splendid show.
We then headed back round the lake bottom stopping and assaying the little freedom camp areas, finding one on a creek outlet. I tried again for a fish and landed a lovely rainbow about 3lb perhaps. So we moved on to a suitable place out of the wind to enjoy the sunny evening on the foreshore.
We were conveniently placed to cycle a short 10km section of the Alps 2 Ocean cycle Trail running round the bottom of Lake Ohau to the Canal roads that then run into Twizel. A very scenic 21km return ride in great weather was had  before we continued on into Twizel, which is booming we must say, for supplies  and went up to the  Lake Pukaki Canals to shelter amongst the trees from the strong winds but still looking for a salmon. Finally caught my second one …a smaller one than Bro Alan’s & mine of a few weeks ago but definitely a keeper. Excited I headed back after lunch to bag another and in my jubilance let the next fish go, a 5lb rainbow quickly caught, assuming they were there for my convenience but sadly …….no  more fish were seen  indeed not even the next day.
The weather was changing for the worse so it was time to leave the McKenzie and think about heading northward and where to spend our final two weeks before returning home to Nelson for Xmas.
Meandering the back roads of the Inland Scenic Route 72 – highly recommended rather than the main Highway 1 for those that have the time to enjoy. Great to see so many small communities thriving and pulling in passing Tourists, encouraging them to “Responsibly Freedom Camp”.
Passing through the Rakaia Gorge on this route, we decided to do the 4 hour return walk to the Upper Gorge, looking quite fierce with all the heavy rain up in the western ranges. (major flooding started happening closing this route two days later!). We were surprised how many tourists stopped to do this walk on their travels too considering very little signage for the walk. 
Bill enjoys a saunter through some of the galleries and shops on this route, one such place in Oxford that caught his eye with a Brass wine/beer barrel, Keg tap. A must own for all Bus owners!!
Bill's new gadget
(He reckons collectable๐Ÿ˜‚)
With the south island currently being hit by torrential down pours and amazing lightening strikes at the moment, we are slowly making our way up to Golden Bay for a weeks R&R before returning to Nelson. Ready for the festive season ๐ŸŽ„๐ŸŽ„