Fab Five go Forth North

Cape Reinga - a meeting of the Tasman and South Pacific Oceans

We agreed to meet mid-February at Red Beach RSA on Saturday evening. Arriving from all quarters to start a new adventure after our previous one on the East Coast last year - two Buses (G&C borrowing Wendy's Father's) and one Camper Van.

A refreshing swim in rock pools on the Hibiscus Coast

We did a small walk around the area on arrival where Graeme had previously lived 20 odd years earlier. As it was a warm start to our trip we decided to have a swim at the local beach, which had a rather steep access and only rock pools at the bottom which Wendy & I enjoyed while the Boys checked the fishing prospects. Dinner at the RSA made the first evening easy, and it was an opportunity for Claire to catch up with an old friend who lives in the area, who came and had a drink with us.

Auckland is so massive and not easy to get in and out of but thankfully we all travelled through without any issues, even popping off the motorway in and out of Silverdale for supplies as we knew there wasn’t a lot of options up north. Access in and out of this village (can you still call it that??) has been well designed with a lot of the large format stores – including the not so big……JayCar where Bill loves visiting.

Quirky Cafe under construction
at Kaiwaka

Tinopai - looking across to Wendy & G&C's Campers

Alan, Graeme, Margaret, Bill & Sheryl and Claire
(Sorry Wendy someone had to take the photo)

Day 1 we ventured north  - heading up HW1, calling into Kaiwaka (what a quirky little town this is – not easy to park with yellow lines both sides of the road in and out of town) for a coffee before turning off the main highway at Brynderwyn heading to Tinopai for our first camp on this trip. Shannon’s in-laws (Margaret & Alan) were also doing a Northland trip in their motorhome and as Alan grew up in this area it was on their radar and timing worked well for a catch up.

Tinopai is on the Kaipara Harbour and is quite pretty like the surrounding area, so long as the tide is in. Otherwise the mudflats aren’t that attractive. Our little beach did need the water in to allow us to be able to swim – of which we had a few. We decided on  2 nights here as the Boys were hoping to have some luck fishing but sadly with no results. Bill did lose some of his gear - to a ray most probably he thinks!

A very discrete commode - beautiful timber at the Kauri Museum

Wendy and ourselves wanted to see the Kauri Museum just back up on the main road at Matakohe, which has a huge collection of early New Zealand Pioneer history. Graeme & Claire had been recently so decided to continue travelling north. We spent all morning here and could have easily spent more time. But the Bus loads of tourists that came and went while we were there only had 45 mins to take it all in. So we were more fortunate. Bill and I had been here 40 odd years ago – but don’t remember the detail. We could remember the huge collections of Kauri Gum that some people had over the years and have now donated to the Museum – it’s not really the thing people have taking over half their house these days. Let alone dust it!!

The beautiful Lake Kai Iwi 

After a late lunch in Dargaville (another lovely town when the tide is in), we continued on up Highway 12 to Kai Iwi Lakes where we met up with Wendy – stunning turquoise waters with white white sands. G&C being ahead of us had already sampled this lovely swimming hole.

Bill & Graeme trying for a fish - but in that water!(Horeke)

Horeke - where there's a Pub but no beer or food or service

Lunch break and fresh eggs on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail

The last part of the cycle trail back to Horeke

We were last here 31 years ago camping with Shannon when she was about 3 months old. We can’t remember it as beautiful so think it must have been an overcast day as today was stunning. Kai Iwi Lakes are fresh water lakes nestled in sand dunes. And it was sooooooooo warm. The white sands went out quite a way and then dropped off. I never went that far but Bill did of course! There is a basic wee camp there which gets crowded over the Christmas break of course as it’s only 3 hours from Auckland even though it has taken us 3 days.

The day was getting on by the time we got back on the road and still had 80km to get to our next destination at Koutu Point on the Hokianga Harbour – another huge harbour on the West Coast. It felt like a big day by the time we arrived at a private property out on the point looking out onto the harbour and at $10/ van – great value. But unfortunately too late for a swim. Unless you wanted to walk out quite a way to find the water. And after my navigating Bill down the wrong road that expressly warned against towing and turning! Sometimes local signage like this is put up by locals to discourage random traffic. So we weren't paying much attention. Mistake! Had to unhook and back 500 m to the junction separately. Must read the signs in future!!. Bill really needed a beer!

 It was on to Horeke (still on the Hokianga)  the next morning  to ostensibly have some pub grub and bike a short section of the twin coasts cycle trail. Unfortunately the publican had reasonable reviews but was not so good with his work ethic. We found it all shut up - no meals, no nothing. Then someone read the sign that he was closed Monday & Tuesdays and opened for evening meals for the rest of the week. Great! It is Wednesday so should all be good for dinner. So we did a bit of ticki touring around the area – visiting Wairere Boulders to see the advertised amazing boulders but at $15 each ($75) we thought it was a bit much to wander through their bush. We visited the little church by the Mangungu Mission House where the third and largest signing of the Treaty of Waitangi occurred on the 12 February 1840.  Now every year on the 12^th they celebrate the Treaty here.

Who thought Shags were so attractive when courting -
another amazing photo from Wendy

When we returned to the Pub looking forward to a drink and a meal, we found a few more Campers had arrived expecting the same. But sadly, the Proprietor had decided not to bother opening, so the majority of us sat around by the waterfront and had our own little happy hour – meeting some interesting fellow motorhomers. One couple were organising a shuttle ride the next day on part of the Twin Coast Cycle Trail to Okaihau and then ride the 28km (3hrs) mostly downhill back to Horeke. Sounded perfect for us too. We got picked up in the morning, had a coffee in Okaihau and rode through  lovely  dairy farmland and forests and finally over a 4k board walk thru the mangroves on a tide literally lapping over the track in places.

The pressure is on to be first to complete the Sudoku 👍

Back to Horeke for a promised beer the rumour being he was going to open but.... alas this day was a good dog walking day and might just open for evening meal.

So after a bite of our own food and a quick shower we headed off to Matai Bay via Kaitaia where we replenished supplies.
Also caught up on some computer work while Bill did the laundry - he was asked if he had a small, medium or large load?
After some thought - he said medium. He was then asked if the medium load was a small, medium or large load? Ha ha. Anyway an hour later and a cost of $5.40 and their laundry powder, the load was ready for pick up- how could you complain! 😄

"Straight as Bro" - another good set with the Torpedo👍

Matai Bay is a lovely doc camp on Karikari Peninsula across on the East Coast at the base of Cape Reinga. With predicted stormy weather at the end of Cyclone Oma due we thought it best to nestle in the bush where we should be reasonable sheltered. We had two nights here and thankfully the storm didn’t come to anything. But unfortunately it wasn’t pleasant enough for swimming either (although Claire did manage one). B & G took the Suzuki complete with Kontiki around to Tokerau Beach where they caught a couple of snapper – perfect in fish tacos thanks G&C.

Steve (Birthday Boy), Us and Julie at Rangiputa

 With the weather improving and being Saturday – it was time to head around to Rangiputa to another little Doc Camp at the end of the road. Steve and Julie were to celebrate Steve’s 70^th birthday (and retirement) with family and friends. It was lovely to share this special occasion with them. Now the fun will start Guys – where to live / how much longer to keep working Julie / where to spend most of your time??

The Boys had another go fishing but no luck this time. Hopefully more success up north.

After the weekend the weather settled beautifully and we headed up to Cape Reinga again via Kaitaia for more supplies and dump waste. As the day was stunning we decided to go straight to the Cape and take photo’s while the opportunity was with us. And then headed back down and into Tapotupotu Bay – Doc’s Camp #1. We caught up with G&C but not Wendy. So we assumed all was good with her and we would see her at Camp - with no cell phone coverage there was no way of discussing any of this.
Anyway when we finally turned up at Camp - Wendy was in a stressful state from having driven down the steep gravel road into camp which we had forgotten about that this was an issue for Wendy and her front wheel drive vehicle. So by the time we arrived she was very worked up and ready for a wine or a bottle or two! 

Cape Reinga Walkway - nearly back at Camp Tapotupotu 

A busy little camp now being managed by the local Iwi and rumoured to be vested back to them later this year. We wonder how that will affect the access the NZMCA now enjoy to stay at this stunning convenient camp.

The next day Wendy, Bill & I went back to the Cape to walk the 5km back to the camp. Delivered there by G&C who then went off on a Tiki tour of their own whilst we trudged back round the somewhat steep coastal track. A stunning walk cresting panoramic sea cliffs and dropping into a lovely secluded bay, and then steeply onto our home bay. Took us a couple of hours and we were ready for a swim in the inlet on our return with G&C still touring down south somewhere (really the only direction from here).

Fishermen , fish and seagulls at Spirits Bay

Not a bad day's catch😊

Fish filleter and his coffee assistant

A short drive the next day took us to Spirits Bay, not so busy as it is a 15km gravel road detour off the beaten track. A little walk from the camp takes you to a huge ocean beach complete with stunning golden sands. This looked like a good place to launch the Kontiki which we did and both times hauled in fish. (4&5 snapper) We stayed 2 nights and were loath to move on however with enough fish to settle the craving we set sail south and went to a little camp not far from Mangonui after a re-provisioning stop at Kaitaia once more. Also for S to catch up on  her work.

Hihi camp is nestled in a small inlet on the old foreshore giving a totally sheltered leafy camp. A five minute walk to a lovely beach  looking north across Doubtless Bay to Tokerau Beach where we set our lines the week before.

Lovely Mongonui

A small detour the next morning back to Mangonui to visit the Saturday Market and buy  local jam for our toast before heading on to Taupo Bay – our next destination.

Although nice enough, unfortunately the camp was back up the road, not near the beach so we decided to push on further to Tauranga Bay. Another Beach camp with basic but adequate facilities. Quite busy with our age group of course. So we had to wait till night 2 before we were able to move right onto the beach front where on a rolling consensus extended our stay to 4 nights.

Everyone has an opinion on how to bring in the seaweed😄

The beach also yielded some fish as well as a nice swimming spot and even a breaching shark less than 3 m of shore. A place we would’ve been happy to stay longer. There was even time for Wendy to bake her “Famous” Meatloaf – delicious too Wendy.

While here we detoured by car one of the days back to Whangaroa Harbour for a look. This was a location Sheryl and I visited as young lovers to stay at Kingfisher lodge with a work group soon after I first moved to AK in 1978. We later returned with all four parents a few years later for a lovely weekend all getting to know each other.

This was greatly enhanced by the captain on the shuttle boat (no road access to the fishing lodge) liberally sharing swigs of rum on the 40 min trip to the lodge.

This time round we had a bite to eat at the Boat Club with a nice cold one before walking around the little Bay.

A reflective moment at the Rainbow
Warrior memorial

A not quite so reflective moment!

Time was moving on and sadly we had to continue south. But not too far – 18km over a scenic coastal road to Matauri Bay – wow! Just when we didn’t think the beaches could get any better. This had the clearest aqua waters of all the beaches we visited, with stunning white sands too. 

Matauri Bay - perfect for swimming

Up above the cliffs overlooking the bay is the Rainbow Warrior Memorial to the Greenpeace protest ship that was blown up in Auckland in 1985 and latter got scuttled here. 

 B&G tried the Kontiki once again as it looked perfect and “Uncle” had said it was a great spot. But sadly the Kontiki got hooked on something and snapped off coming backing in. There it stayed the night till Bill paddled out in the morning on a borrowed kayak and pulled it back in – sadly no fish or gear on it!

Bringing in Bill and the Kontiki

And sadly we had to move on once again as our trip was rapidly coming to an end.

Next stop Kerikeri Inlet  Aroha Island Eco Center, a small ecological camp amongst the mangroves. From here we went off to walk the Marsden Cross Track that G&C had highly recommended. Another piece of NZ early history where the first Mission Settlement was settled. It was a lovely walk through farmland to Oihi Bay. There were information boards along the track giving plenty of interesting history on the early settlers and the Maori of that area.

Marsden Cross Memorial

The Aroha Island Eco Center advertise  a chance of spotting a kiwi, widely advanced by the proprietors. However after venturing thru the tracks after our usual post dinner debrief charged with good wine, and armed with our red lights (white light prohibited) we stagger around for a good 40 mins. We returned to camp none the wiser as to where the kiwis were however a couple of Scandinavians were indeed lucky spotting two somewhat lost kiwis and engaging us in riveting conversation for another 30 mins before we finally got to bed.

Wendy and crew on the Mangrove boardwalk to the Haruru Falls

Dinner at Waitangi Camp - W, B, C and Anna & Ronnie

A little treat at Paihia in the sun

This was our last night camped together as our next destination was Waitangi where Graeme had a conference to attend for the weekend while Claire stayed in their Bus with us at Waitangi Holiday Camp. G had some swanky room at the Copthorne Hotel that he wasn’t sharing with us Bus peasants. Not even his fluffy white towels!!

Still we managed to entertain ourselves checking out Pihia’s township once the sun came out and walking through to the Haruru Falls the next day (13km return) which included a lovely board walk through mangroves with the tide lapping the sides. Picturesque.

That evening we had Wendy’s daughter Anna and friend Ronnie for a bbq dinner at camp, which was a lovely evening.

Come Sunday our little group was to part ways after 3 weeks of wonderful adventures in Northland – no breakdowns, lots of swims and lots of laughs. And amazingly Claire managed to stay on the Wagon throughout the whole trip, even with their near death experience just out of Koutu. Well done Claire.

Whangateau with the Brothers

Wendy continued her way home slowly, taking in a few more beaches and birds. We went on to Whangateau where my brother Allan had been keen on us to join them sometime. Well this was a perfect time. Plus Wayne came and joined us too ( staying across the road at the Camp – he’s not a Bus person). It was a lovely way to finish our trip with all my brothers and partners – thanks Allan for organising..

The Mighty Waikato River and some of its trails

Sheryl, Bill and Wendy on the Trail 

Brother Graeme had organised a small group of Riders to do the 70km Te Awa Cycle Trail which travels  from Ngaruawahia (north of Hamilton), down through Hamilton and on to Karipiro ( south of Cambridge) on E Bikes mid-February. Brother Wayne and ourselves having E bikes also got an invite.
Timing worked well for us as we were about to spend a bit of time on the Waikato River with G&C’s friend (and fellow Motorhomer) Wendy, checking out some of the lovely reserves to camp along and do bits of the Waikato River trail.

The "A" Team
Graeme, Wendy, Wayne, Sheryl, Diane, Kevin, Bill, Mel and Claire

The planned weekend was in the middle of our stay on the river so it was easy to meet up in Cambridge at a POP (Park Over Place) near the Podium Lodge where the others were all staying. The Lodge hire out the E bikes and offered  a shuttle service to Ngaruawahia, which all 9 of us took advantage of.  

The trail just coming into Hamilton

Bill a little lost..........

Posers Corner - sorry you aren't in it Wendy

The Perry Cycle bridge

1....2....3....... Dare you 😏

When you organise an event a month early you are guessing what the weather will do but G must have had the weather Gods on his side as we had the perfect weekend to do our 2 day trail. Saturday was the Ngaruawahia to Cambridge leg and Sunday the Cambridge to Karapiro and return.

The Lodge gave us maps but unfortunately we didn’t listen very well as the section of trail from Hamilton Gardens to Cambridge isn’t complete as yet, so after a bit of confusion, not helped by the lovely lunch & beers at The Good George Brewery, and Google - we managed to find our way back to the Lodge for a quick refreshing beer and showers before getting picked up and taken to the Five Stags for dinner. Had a lovely meal and returned not too late into the evening for us all to rest up for the second part of the trail the next morning.

Sunday took us to the  Cafe at Lake Karapiro for a delicious Brunch via a mostly off road cycle way. It was good to see lots of families on the trail too. Almost panicked when they were going to prevent us eating at the Cafe unless we paid the $15 / head entrance fee for the power  boat racing which none of us were interested in. But thankfully one of the Organisers felt sorry for us and let us through, whom G&C rewarded later as we left with some delicious food from the cafe.

Our return to Cambridge finished for us at the Clubhouse Sports Bar at the Cambridge Racecourse with a cold drink and debrief  before 6 returned to Auckland and Waihi Beach. I think everyone was happy with their E Bike experience but agreed there was nothing better than your own bike (if you had one) and get it modified as all the bikes didn’t suit all bodies. Bill ……. Could be a job for you???

Either side of the weekend we were parked up along the Waikato River mainly in the Little Waipa Reserve which is on the Waikato Cycle Trail with Wendy. The weather was amazing – mostly 30 degree days so it was always pleasant to cool off in the river. Bill & I managed to get out for a paddle up the river and return one day – nothing too adventurous, but at least got the kayak off the roof of the car.

We also rode the 12km return of the Waikato Rail trail to the Arapuni Dam and Swing Bridge one of the days.  Back in the other direction to Pokaiwhenua another day where the trail commences. Quite scenic following the river most of the way and quite busy especially on Waitangi Day.  It was certainly lovely to be able to just drop into the river on our return.

Wendy had good friends Mary & mother Rosemary from an earlier life when she was living in Hamilton, living in Maungatautari  near their ex farm looking out over the river. Mary and her family are a amazing people who have done so much for their area, including older sister Kate who now manages the nearby property that has been restored to native bush and created a world class equestrian facilities built under the present Owner who likes his privacy so we didn’t get to meet obviously but did get shown over the property which was amazing. Another Gem in the Waikato.

The view looking out over the river through a lovely Fuschia climber at Rosemary's

The week earlier when we first met Mary and Mary’s mother Rosemary (now 87) who was incredible – still happy to host anyone who drops in to stay as we did one night with our motorhomes.  

Bit of pressure in the evenings!

The views across to the River

A little paddle to see what what was around the bend!

Mary launched her boat just after dusk and took us up the Pokaiwhenua River where we saw the most amazing Glow Worm site ( along with a couple of tour operators and their clients – but thankfully they were leaving just as we arrived). Bill and I have never seen such a display before – you felt like you were in some amazing fantasy world full of Elves and Fairies!
We enjoyed a 7km walk around the Maungatautari Mountain Sanctuary which is an ecological area surrounded by the worlds longest pest-proof fence. Lovely bush walks but sadly not a lot of bird life at the time of day we came in. Such a disappointment for Wendy. 

So our two weeks on the Waikato sadly came to its end as we needed to return to Waihi Beach and prepare for our 3 week Odyssey in the Far North with the Fab 5 whom we did East Cape last year with. The weather has been amazing – hopefully it continues although I’m sure the Farmers are not thinking the same!