Deep South

Early morning photo, Lake Gunn heading on  toward Milford Sound 

Left Mavora heading south onto Invercargill to catch up with my late sister Suzanne's family -husband Lennox and their 3 children, now well grown and with their own families. Was good to catch Lennox and my nieces, Davinna her partner Malcolm & kids Shyanne, Jasmin & Gabriel one day, and the next day, after a quick bike around Otatara, Natasha, partner George,and kids Orielle, Teryn with Lennox Junior also there visiting his own children, Kayla presently also living with her
Aunty Natasha, as well. Its complicated.

Parked up at Otatara

With the seasonal nature of much of the work in Southland, that the families are involved in, it is difficult for them to get much forward traction. What was really pleasing to see was the weight loss both Nieces have achieved over the last couple of years after making life changing decisions, wishing to avoid Suzanne's weight issues and her premature death at 54.
We stayed on Dorothy & JimYoung's property just out of Invercargill at Otatara, a rural area near the estuary and Oreti Beach. They were family friends we often visited and camped with in our Invercargill days. There were 12 children so there was always some one for every one....
Sadly Jim recently passed but Dorothy is in fine form and we spent 3 pleasant evenings reminiscing and importantly recording where her 12 are now, to look up and visit as we continue our travels .

Walking around the Bluff Headland - trees growing with the wind

Looking back into Riverton /Aparima

Our parents have kept the contacts going and thus we have had snippets over the years, undoubtedly both ways, but with our parents generation slowly passing this is something that now takes on a new urgency as we ourselves get older.
Lunched in Invercargill and the obligatory stroll around -The local hardware store, (Hammer Hardware I think) is huge. They have a huge range of everything and amazingly a second to none collection of old motoring memorabilia including Bert Munro's old bikes, indeed most of his work shop. This is kinda close to my heart as my Dad regaled us with exploits of beach racing at Oreti Beach where Bert was often to be found, fine tuning his bikes then racing against the lads, always with a word or three of advice.
Monday saw us venturing to lands end, "Bluff" doing a 7.8km walk around the headland.
Bluff has been unable to reinvent itself since a lot of industry has moved away. It still is a busy "ish" place, with the smelter, oysters and fishing, not forgetting, the start & finish point for many travellers odysseys up and down the country not the least being the Aotearoa Trail. However a drive round the quiet back streets reveals a far from burgeoning economy. Indeed it may well be a choice place to invest in, Bluff being nestled on the hill above the port with a northerly aspect, and largely sheltered from the howling Southerlies, it seems idyllic. Perhaps the howling Westerlies, Easterlies and Northerlies negate this quaint picture, but ..........maybe........

The start of the Kepler Track

Mum showing her young one how to dismember it's food
At the same time keeping an eye on us

A lonely  fresh water mussel shell.
Lake TeAnau.

 We lunched on  lovely fresh Blue Cod. I'm sorry you "snapper fixated" people in the NI. Cod is hard to beat. The weather wasn't looking so promising to go to Stewart Is. This would need to be a few days, and we weren't well prepared, so put this excursion on hold for another time. With the cooler unsettled weather (not forgetting our proximity to Foveaux Strait) we decided to start heading north.
Next -Invercargill to Colac Bay through Riverton - cloudy and cool. A couple of hours in the Museum for some early history of the area. The stories of hardship, plundering of resources, the sealers, whalers, loggers, goldminers and settlers never ceases to grab my attention. Aye....... they were lucky...... there is always a worse story of hardship and deprivation to be found. .
Pushing on through to Manapouri & TeAnau hoping for more settled weather for a night or two - we ended up staying 4 nights at the lovely  TeAnau NZMCA camp handy to town.
Walked the start of the Kepler, on the TeAnau foreshore, lovely mossy Beech forests, the bird life, alive with Bell birds and fantails and were lucky to watch a pair of NZ Falcons feeding on a small bird from just a few metres. They kept a wary eye on us but continued plucking the hapless carcase and shredding it to gorge on. At this distance a close encounter was had & the photos easy - an opportunity which doesn't come often.

Morning mist on Mirror Lakes.

Fresh snow capped mountains on the way to Hollyford Camp

The Gunn Hollyford Camp 

Memorabilia from the past at Gunn Camp

These mountains are majestic as we travel toward Homer Tunnel 

This Kea had already tried to strip our Bus of bling

Stirling Falls

Looking back into Milford Sound from the open sea

 Mitre Peak in Milford

Also found on the shore a mussel shell. Again a rarity and something I've come to realise only recently that such things exists ie fresh water mussels. We had a guided tour thru the Timaru Maori Rock Art Experience a few days ago and the young Maori guide knew that they existed, however, he opined, not recognised as a palatable food source least ways not in times of plenty. Probably just need a dash of salt.......
The local info board at our TeAnau camp highly recommended a smaller local tour company offering a day outing and cruise on Milford Sound. Sheryl did not need to twist my arm very hard and we booked for the following day, fingers crossed for the weather. Over night was cool with rain showers, but were delighted to wake to a fine day and a sprinkle of snow well down on the mountains.
And so our day went, full of highlights, with a personable driver guide, Ray, who was able to navigate our small coach into places the big buses didn't go thus avoiding the swinging selfie sticks and incessant clicking of hundreds of cameras, you get the picture. Interspersed with some walks and a 2 hr cruise, a lovely morning tea break at Gunn Camp down the the Hollyford valley, it was a day to remember, and we have the 300 odd photos to prove it. However no selfie stick was used  on the making of our tour.
Interestingly Ray said in the height of the season they can have  6000 visitors daily, the bulk by coach out of Queenstown, also many self driving in their rental motor homes and cars. The odd wing mirror litters the road and not all from the mischievous Kea.. Parking was diabolical to say the least, even this late in the season, another good reason to take the tour.
Despite the numbers, Milford is still a stunning place to visit, the many boats and planes detract from it, but don't ruin the sheer beauty of the Sounds.(but do strain the credulity of the word "isolated") We are a lucky people to have these wonders so accessible.
With the weather a bit hit and miss our batteries for the fridge are starting to struggle, a problem we were aware of but yet to rectify. However with not plugging in to boost them up for over 4 weeks, and with the War Birds enforced 4 day camp coming up it was deemed prudent to find a place to charge up for 48 hrs or so. Kingston came to mind as well located for our rendezvous with J&M at Queenstown's Jack's Point Wednesday night. Then onto Wanaka Thursday night. So Kingston it was. Another nostalgic  wander round the quiet but now rapidly growing village.  We took a shortish bike ride to Allen's Valley and the Trotter homestead ruins. Now well diminished from my boyhood memories (need to find the old photos for comparison) and certainly an easy trip compared to the mighty excursion it was back in the day. Tho to be fair we didn't have the luxury of the new "Round the Mountain Bike Trail" that takes you there directly from the bottom of the lake. In "the day" we would variously follow the rail line, farm trails, stock trails, and bush bash our way on foot.
We followed this up with a walk round the lakes Western side to One Mile creek on an old stock trail presumably from Half Way Bay. Again, in the day, it was well covered and we resorted to pushing thru broom and ferns on occasion but it appears now Doc. have resurrected the old trail as it is now well cleared being a well benched all weather stock track from yesteryear. Whether it still connects to the bay is a mute point and one that may be followed up on another occasion.

Takahe at the Wildlife Bird Sanctuary in Te Anau
(First time both of us have seen a live one)

We are now on the doorstep of Wanaka for War Birds over Wanaka this Easter. Also delighted to hear from our good friends Sam & Pauline from Hahei who are also heading there, this bodes well for a big weekend.....

New Kayak and Mavora Lakes

Kingston without the Flyer but with BB

Butchers Dam

Daniel was the man in Roxborough who had the kayak Bill had bought six weeks earlier through Tradme sight unseen. Thankfully it was all that Daniel had said it was - with lots of additional gear. Sail, two trollies, jackets, all the gear.  The issue being that overall it was heavier than our Little Yella and with Sheryl's under whelming strength it was going to be a struggle to get Big Bertha up on the car roof where it was to be carried, not on top of the bus like Little Yella as we don't have the same space with BB (Big Blue / Big Bus /Bill's Bus etc - still haven't come up with a name!!).
So for now Daniel & Bill managed (not that easily either) to get the kayak on the roof of the car, suitably stropped down before heading off to Lake Dunstan for a few days to play around with it and see how it all worked.

Delicious Central Apricots

 On our way we passed many fruit stalls (typical of Central Otago) still selling apricots. We couldn't resist the 4Kg box of 2nds for $10. Hardly seconds, but they were all ripe and wouldn't last long. So it was into jam making, a dozen small pies and stewed fruit for breakfasts. Plus fresh ones to eat of course. A bit of a surprise now that we are into March that they were still available! The seasons are certainly changing.
Before reaching Lake Dunstan we came across Butchers Damn - Alexander's first water supply and a picturesque spot to park up for the night. A bit of a worry were the dark clouds heading our way over the hills in the background and an already heavy kayak on our car with two big open hatches! With some effort we managed to flip it over while still up on the car, to forestall the real,but unusual, possibility of the boat sinking whilst still being high and dry.
The rain didn't eventuate and we had a lovely walk around the damn before dusk, indeed with Bill topless as the temperature was a balmy 20C plus.

We have a convoy (Alexandra)

The next morning we headed through Alexandra where Bill picked up a new battery for the Suzuki with its current one still struggling. I did some computer work while Bill picked up some ham from the Deli (cos he couldn't find the supermarket)! $11 for 4 slices had Bill freaking  out and his wallet squirming uncomfortably deep in the farthest corners of his capacious pocket....... hastily reducing the order to 2 slices. ha ha - I'm sure he will look harder for a supermarket next time! But as I said to him - it would have been a happy little NZ pig that was well cared for before ending up on our plate.
Onto Cromwell and Lake Dunstan. Here freedom campers can stay 3 nights at a time at Lowburn on the Lake side, only 3km from the town centre. So we settled  in for Bill to sort out the kayak, try it out and come up with a system to get it up and down off the car. Coming down is always easier than going up, but even so it was a lot of weight to keep steady as was lowered to the ground. Phew! At least it didn't get dropped.

Inaugural paddle on Lake Dunstan

We got the great behemoth out for its inaugural paddle. Bill was more than happy with it's first outing, I was a little more cautious. It didn't feel as smooth as Little Yella.
Unfortunately the next day was misty and cold. Not suitable for a paddle. So it was into Cromwell for supplies, a tarp for the hatch covers, and a visit to the local museum learning more on the gold fields and the flooding of the Cromwell valley during the Think Big years of the Muldoon era. Then back to the bus to make jam / pies and hatch covers.

Spreading out at Camp Lowburn

The next morning was perfect for a paddle and "the motor". Sorry fellow Nelson Kayak Club Members but this beast comes with a rig to mount  Bill's little 1.5Hp motor on for us to be able to go that little bit further on our travels. It performed beautifully after being in storage for a few years. We headed up to Pisa Moorings (which we paddled into, so as not to upset the locals), across the lake back down to camp. A 12.3 km round
trip over a couple of hours. Very pleasant. Bill very happy.

Looking down from Shirt Tail Rock

Thursday was time to head off once again. Our initial plan was Invercargill to catch up with some of Bill's family that live down there. But as the weather was looking good for the next few days we decided to head into the Mavora Lakes via

Kingston Beach - Dot showing Shirt Tail Rock

Kingston & Lumsden.Bill's family had a Crib at Kingston when he was young, so lots of happy memories. One memory was  the often climbed Shirt Tail Rock, when he was about 6, now at 60 he wanted to relive the adventure. One look up for me was enough to realise I wasn't sharing this adventure with him. An hour and a half later he had completed the trip.
The climb affords a stunning outlook over the now burgeoning village of Kingston. As youngsters we would hurtle up this track sometimes twice daily, The track was a bit hairy in places and one day Mum (Joan) wanted to come up as it was obviously so popular. Well Shock Horror, Mum was distraught to think her little children were daily within a hairs breadth of losing their lives, being dashed on the rocks hundreds of metres below... She all but forbade the kids to ever go up again..... but they did time and time again.
The track is now well formed most of the way but the last 20mins still is a scramble from root to rock, but the view point is now complete with a well made safety rail. Gone are the days of eating biccies perched on the ledge, legs kicking out into thin air....

Fresh apples on the side of the cycle trail
(not quite ready Bill!)

We continued onto Lumsden staying in the NZMCA camp - a very handy walk into town. And the next day rode through to the Five Rivers Cafe on the "Round The Mountain" trail - a 26km round trip on the rail corridor once plied by the Kingston Flyer,
sadly now parked up in Kingston and scarcely a km of track left. I understand it has been on sold and will not run at Kingston again, least ways not in the foreseeable future. Again we have exciting memories of perhaps 6 kids riding in the engine (bare footed) from Fords Crossing down to the wharf, a km at best. The driver would stop for us kids,  letting us ride whilst the fireman would be shovelling coal in, cinders smoke and steam.....God think of it now. As a young man of 20 odd, on a rare trip back to Invercargill I met the fire man ,a character called Merlin who funnily enough remembered me, and proceeded to tell of the fact they only stopped cos of Mum(a good looker) patiently waiting with the kids and always trying to entice her on board as well , which she did on occasion.
 At Lumsden we had our first unwanted bus guest - but a $6 mouse trap soon sorted that free loader out.  The colder days obviously bought him in - amazing how much poop a little mouse can leave throughout all the cupboards!.

Our camp sight at Northern Lake Mavora

The next generation of fishermen
Dad teaching his boys to fish - camping for the weekend

Onto Lake Mavora - passing a few cyclist doing the Round The Mountain - not great along this section on the dusty road. Saturday was busy with lots of families camping around the expansive Doc Camp. Plenty of room to spread out at this place and we soon found a place to call ours for the next few days.

Trying the sail

Our first morning was suitable for an excursion out on the lake with our kayak- a paddle to the bottom of the northern lake and then a nice breeze to try the sail out as we headed back up toward the top of the lake. Very easy to operate. Stopping back into our camp, we dropped off the kite (against Bill's desire but suited my comfort level) and picked up the outboard. Unfortunately soon after the wind changed direction and increased in strength so we returned to base without actually trying out the motor on this trip. And with the wind never easing up, there wasn't another opportunity this visit.

Walking toward South Lake Mavora

We did a two hour walk along western side of the Southern Mavora Lake, and were  about an half hour into the return walk along the road back to camp when Jenny &

Jenny, Murray & Bill about to head off

Murray passed us in their new 4WD they had picked up 2 days before. Oh Murray!  Such a dusty dirty drive in!! But even with a dirty car they were most welcome also carrying fresh supplies to make yummy filled rolls. Had lunch and off on our bikes on the 4WD track toward
the first hut on the lake - pretty rough, huge pot holes - good test of J&M's riding skills on their electric bikes. Another fun interlude with the Butlers and them experiencing some more remote NZ.

Tough going, with or without electric power

Following the 4WD track along the lake edge

Their new car being in response partially to our earlier trip thru the Nevis 4WD track before Xmas. This was enjoyed enough to warrant the procurement of a  capable vehicle as there are a lot of isolated back country drives down this way. Only problem may be the car cleaning costs as those "white shinys" can get a trite dirty on those gnarly tracks.





On our list of "Must Do Tiki Tours" was the drive into Mt Nicholas and along to Walters Peak on the shores of Lake Wakatipu.  This turned out to be a beautiful spot, with its own micro climate.The Walters Peak Homestead gardens are a credit to the garden staff, belying the otherwise tough climate experienced by some of the exposed areas down this way.The staffer we were talking to said it was a typically  Central Otago climate. Not hard to believe looking at the summer blooming of so many flowers, and us camped up at Lake Mavora suffering temps in the low teens.

Mt Nicholas Station looking up Lake Wakatipu

The ride in was fab. A road not well known or travelled thankfully.The road to Mavora is 40 odd km on a gravel road and reasonably well travelled with the Mavora Lakes being a popular destination, it is a popular hunting ,fishing, boating, 4WD destination not to mention it is on the Te Aroha walkway connecting in with the Greenstone at the top of the Lake, and is part of the Round the Mountains Bike Trail, at 186 Km a reasonable sort of ride albeit with one or to long hauls.

Walters Peak Homestead & it's beautiful gardens

TSS Earnslaw loading the next group of tourists

Looking back from Walter Peak Station to Queenstown
across Lake Wakatipu

But the road carries on for another 50 K and it is a great "Big Country" drive thru stunning high country vista through Mt Nicholas Station and then round Lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak Station. This is now owned by Real Journeys who also own the TSS Earnslaw and in  peak season bring in over 1200  tourists daily by boat. It is a creditable operation and keeping those tourists off the road for a day around Queenstown has got to be a good thing. However any one wanting a good days drive in the southern area, in some High Country Wilderness this little known drive would be hard to beat, and the opportunity for a high tea at "The Colonels" a bonus, (or a distraction you need not attend). This would also be a "Nice" motorcycle ride in case you are reading this Mark.
We ventured one more day at Mavora Lakes, an opportunity to ride to the first hut round the lake and a ride it was. On reflection we made a good call earlier with J&M not to try and continue round as it would have been a severe test for all. Bikes and riders Tarmac it was not. I now want to complete this 10 k section in a 4wd. Need to talk nicely to Murray 😊
Five nights at Mavora and the windy weather not overly good for paddling means we must again revisit this favoured spot. There is unfinished business here ........

Bill having fun as we return to camp from Walters Peak

Looking up the huge valley through to Walters Peak 

Bill heading off in the distance to the top of the lake

Christchurch to Pounawea

Lake Ellesmere

Left H&R and Christchurch to head off all the way to Lake Ellesmere (Te Waihora) - yes we did a total of 46km - big day!

Lovely spot looking across the lake - not that the lake is that pure. Lots of other campers & motorhomes. It was a good spot to stay two nights and have a day travelling around in the Suzuki exploring that part of the country. We drove down to Fisherman's Point, where they open the lake occasionally to prevent flooding and freshen the fish stocks. (Flounder / eels / mullet / whitebait). 

Seed propagation in Canterbury

We did a bit of tiki touring ( Bill loves tiki touring - the Kids weren't quite so keen). Driving across to the Rakaia Huts where Bill & I were both soooo sure we had stayed another time in Big Yella. But no! We hadn't been here before and luckily we hadn't taken the bus even though we originally thought we might have stayed the night.

As it was blowing quite strong, we didn't think we'd bother moving and they were charging $15 a night! Can't keep this life style up at that price, so we decided to stay another night back at Lake Ellesmere. On our return the wind came up on the side of the camp we had parked on so we moved to the other side. Amazing how different and sheltered this side was. Well! Until 1.00am that was! When the wind had changed direction and was blowing side on to us. Bill kindly (either this or kill me!!) moved the Bus to a different angle so we could no longer feel the winds impact. Ahhh..... then we were able to return to sleep. We really thought there would be big pine trees or at least big branches down through the nights gale force winds, but we were surprised the following morning on our walk around camp not to see any damage thankfully.

Hardy Fishermen - didn't see any fish though.

These beaches go on forever!
 Didn't appeal for a swim though.

As we headed out from the lake we called into Hantz Honey Ltd- Lakeside Apiaries where we had a very informative woman tell us all about their business and what they produce and the different varieties of honey they sell - Kamahi / Blackcurrent / Blue Borage. Should a hive become diseased they have to burn them - a $600 loss.  We were very impressed with the information and the pricing of their honey, so stocked up once again. (Last time was when we passed through Geraldine before Christmas. She also informed us that Canterbury was the country's biggest seed producer - we had noticed a lot of paddocks with plants that had gone to seed covered in netting to protect them from the birds. We had wondered what they were growing in the different fields.

We continued our trip southward staying off the main road, visiting the Fishing Huts (Holiday Huts) at the river mouths along this eastern coast line. Rakaia Huts on the southern side of the Rakaia River, Hakatere (Ashburton) River, and Rangitata River. These huts have been in some families for a long time, but speaking to a local at the Rangitata Huts we were told how times are changing. The Timaru Council administer the leases on these properties for DOC. The leases have dropped from 25 years to 5 years plus an inspection.

Nicely tucked in below the wind

The "Huts"

I guess at Rangitata Huts

This is where they are checking you comply with waste water etc. A few properties still had long drops even though these huts are all in close proximity to each other. Main water supplies are in place.  And at this particular location they would only allow 15 permanent residents - I am assuming this is all they think the public systems can handle.

After driving down a terrible single lane, full of pot holes, road to Orari River mouth where there were half a dozen hardy fisherman trying to catch anything in the rough seas, we had some lunch. Checked out Milford Lagoons where we had stayed about 6 years ago and were then impressed with the little settlement and had paddled the lake. But this time round after heavy rains earlier in the week and an over caste day - it wasn't as appealing. So it was off to Winchester to sleep by the bridge along with another lot of campers.

Timaru was our next destination for two reasons:

l          *It's a nice town to visit
       *It has a Book Exchange where I was hoping to get the 5th book in the Clifton Chronicals that Marg has got me addicted to. Sadly the shop didn't have the next instalment! 
      When trying to find the area for Camper's to park, where we knew there was plenty of room for our towing rig, we got a bit lost in the City's Gardens. We ended up going through the City Gardens on a road that we think was only meant for maintenance vehicles. The maintenance guys having smoko did look a bit surprised! We must have gone through where a bollard was down that would normally have prevented this. Thankfully we managed to squeeze out at the far end! Ticket is probably in the post!!

Having the time, we visited the I Site and did the Rock Art Exhibition. This was very informative of the Maori rock art that exists around NZ and it's meaning to the different Maori Tribes - particularly the South Island's 5 Tribes. We didn't realise there was so much art history discovered around the country - mostly on private lands.

Tight turn

A couple of hours later and then lunch, we did the  Loop Walk along the coast line and up an estuary. Rowing practice was in full flow for teams of Girls from singles, doubles, quads and coxed eight boats that barely had room to turn in the width of the river.

We headed off to Waimate for the night - staying in another NZMCA camp. This camp has doubled in size since we were here about 8 years ago. The local volunteers that look after this site have done a lovely job.

Steam Punk HQ Oamaru

The next day was supposedly the first day of Autumn (Noooooooooo not yet!) - we had a lovely day travelling through to Dunedin via Oamaru. Oamaru has a beautiful historic centre they have preserved. It was good to see it reasonably busy with tourists even though NZ is now past peak visitor season. Steam Punk is an Oamaru trade mark, exhibits are placed around the area creating interesting conglomerates.

 Old Oamaru.

Oamaru is known for it's history with Penny Farthing Cycles

Dunedin was dull and cloudy on arrival. We took  the Suzuki out to the Otago Peninsular to the Albatross Centre that was still fairly busy with tourists even though it was after 6pm. The visitor centre was still running tours at that time which shows there must be demand .We didn’t take the tour but the Centre was packed full of interesting information. When we left, there were several of the huge birds winging around. Very neat!

Dunedin we emptied/refilled our tanks and cupboards before heading out to the Catlins for the weekend where the annual Cavalcade event was riding into Owaka the next day.

Having stayed at Pounawea back in 2002, it was nice to return and stay at the same Crib (Batch) once again. Fran's sister Annette and hubby Poss have owned this little bit of paradise since 2001 - great to catch up with them, and friend Marilyn,

Even time for a cuppa while mowing lawns

who also arrived for the weekend to watch the Cavalcade arrive. But before we parked up with our bus on their back lawn, the lawns needed mowing. And as this is a chore I do miss - I am happy to do it. Always very satisfying.

The hardy Riders

The hardy Cyclists

And the Drivers arriving in style

The Cavalcade was a huge event for this little settlement. 400 odd riders and horses covering 9 trails this year, departing from various places throughout the Otago Gold Fields. The original Cobb & Co Coach left Dunedin in November 1862 for the Dunstan Goldfields - 129 yrs later in 1991 retracing the historic journey, the Annual Cavalcades began arriving in different Host towns around the area so each town got a chance to show off its own history and involvement from the Gold Rush days of Otago.  

Relaxing back at the Crib

Walkers were added in 1994 and this year cyclists. All arriving into the town at the end of 4 or 5 days riding through the Goldfields.   A first for Bill & I to watch as they paraded into town and then onto the Market for some food and a little local wine or two. Great atmosphere bringing a lot of locals back for the weekend, so there was a lot of catching up for our Hosts.

Early morning from Pounawea

We returned to their Crib back in Pounawea and continued enjoying the sunny warm afternoon. Finishing off with some whitebait fritters was a great way to end the day. Probably one or two wines less, or that Bailies Marilyn, might have been a better way for the day to have ended! But that wisdom did not occur till the next morning, of course.

Sunday, it was time for us to leave this peaceful little community and head off to Roxborough to pick up our new kayak that Bill bought 6 weeks ago on Trademe.